The Official Photography Thread - Vol. 3

So what did you do to match up the colors correctly for the last photo? Was it just some adjustments on tungsten white balance mode?


Does anyone use that setting where you just change the temperature of the white balance? Forgot what mode it is called but I was messing with it yesterday and found some decent results. It has a pretty wide range and starts off in really warm colors. Drop it down toward the bottom and I find it at a decent setting for yellow lights.

Kelvin mode? i take photos on that mode when i cant seem to find the right WB, not on shoots tho.. usually go live mode first when setting the Kelvin temp to see the balance, its easier
 
Shout out to LA08NATIVE for the info. Thanks.

another question for you guys,

When my picture is ____________ means I need to adjust my Fstop. In other words how do I know when I need to adjust my fstop?

I know bumping ISO to a higher level means brightness (please correct me if Im wrong). So what does fstop do?

And does Fstop adjust the blurryness in a picture. For example, if Im taking a picture of a close object, will the Fstop make the background blurry?

What about if Im taking a picture of a tree froma distance. What will the Fstop do if I adjust it.


Sorry for the questions, just trying to understand a little more.

Your ISO is simply your cameras sensor sensitivity to light, understand that if you don't have a camera like a 5dmkii or similar, you shouldn't place your ISO higher than 1000 as you will notice ALOT of quality loss.

Your FSTOP is your aperture, the lower the number, the more light your camera absorbs and also the shallower your DOF becomes giving you more of the Bokeh everyone likes, this becomes tricky as your window for correctly focusing on a subject gets smaller also....say you are taking a portrait of a single person, always make sure your selected focus point is on the eyes, if you have a lense like a 50L and have your FSTOP @ 1.2 you have to nail those eyes, otherwise you might focus on the tip of the nose or even the eyelashes and ruin your shot, that's how shallow your DOF becomes, now bump that up to 1.8-2.0 and your success rate will be much better...but then you'll have to compensate by dropping your shutter down depending on the available light for the right exposure.

What are you trying to achieve by shooting a tree from a distance?...do you want to isolate the tree and bluer the background?...then Id dial down your f-stop to decrease your DOF....
 
yo ksteezy, where can i find the basics to a 35mm film camera ? picked one up for super cheap and i have no idea where to begin lol.

Thanks in advance
 
I had an even I had to shoot at the NYT building, which had yellow walls all around, all my shots came out with a crazy red tone to them, which was easily corrected in PP in less than 2 minutes with batch processing, is really not that hard....seriously bros, focus on controlling your shutter/aperture/ISO before you drive yourself nuts with all the different WB settings...I'm just trying to point you in the right direction, the camera has so many settings it can be very overwhelming, all you need is to shoot in manual, ALWAYS...and learn the 3 basics to control light, aperture/shutter/ISO...everything else is secondary.
 
yo ksteezy, where can i find the basics to a 35mm film camera ? picked one up for super cheap and i have no idea where to begin lol.

Thanks in advance

Damb...I never shot film, but I take it is the same thing, learn to read your light meter in the viewfinder to properly adjust exposure and shoot....then hopefully you nail it since there is no preview with film :lol:
 
yo ksteezy, where can i find the basics to a 35mm film camera ? picked one up for super cheap and i have no idea where to begin lol.

Thanks in advance

Damb...I never shot film, but I take it is the same thing, learn to read your light meter in the viewfinder to properly adjust exposure and shoot....then hopefully you nail it since there is no preview with film :lol:

I know i was like damb no preview but i figure it would be cool to start from the beginning ya know ? and i plan on developing my own pictures too. so lets see how that works out lol
 
Kelvin mode? i take photos on that mode when i cant seem to find the right WB, not on shoots tho.. usually go live mode first when setting the Kelvin temp to see the balance, its easier

Holy sh*t! This is where I feel like I don't know jack about nothing. Why didn't I think of live mode to see if my white balance is correct?! I just shoot till I see a difference in photos. Haha. Man...thanks for that. Will make things a lot easier now.
 
Sage909 - I have a book somewhere at home that was my textbook for intro to photo in my first year of art school. I will find it and send you the info, great source of info for shooting, and also developing BW photos and film.
 
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So what did you do to match up the colors correctly for the last photo? Was it just some adjustments on tungsten white balance mode?


Does anyone use that setting where you just change the temperature of the white balance? Forgot what mode it is called but I was messing with it yesterday and found some decent results. It has a pretty wide range and starts off in really warm colors. Drop it down toward the bottom and I find it at a decent setting for yellow lights.

To match the light I gel my flash to match incandescent light, because from my experience most lighting in a club are incandescent with some type of colored gel on it.
 
To match the light I gel my flash to match incandescent light, because from my experience most lighting in a club are incandescent with some type of colored gel on it.

Question, why not adjust the WB in PP??...just seem like unesessary work :\
 
Holy sh*t! This is where I feel like I don't know jack about nothing. Why didn't I think of live mode to see if my white balance is correct?! I just shoot till I see a difference in photos. Haha. Man...thanks for that. Will make things a lot easier now.

hahaha taking photos then checking em is such a hassle.. glad to help man
 
Twosickjays - the first image is overall cooler, THE WHOLE IMAGE, the second image is overall warmer, THE WHOLE IMAGE....thanks fr leoving my point bro :lol:

Here is my point, you guys jumped at the idea of WB adjustment and bringing a grey card to the club :lol: I'm not saying knowing how to control your WB on the brink is important, but is not something you should focus on, same goes for manually controlling your flash output...you will drive yourself crazy and mess up ALOT of shots, those two Settings is best to let your camera and flash compensate for on their own while you focus on what will really make a difference shutter/aperture/ISO.

If anyone can sit here and tell me is more beneficial to control your WB manually while shooting in a club, they simply have no clue WTH they are talking about, NONE.

lol you are something else. if you really can't see the comparison then im done. I don't think I can use any more evidence than already provided.
 
Question, why not adjust the WB in PP??...just seem like unesessary work :\

It actually makes my life easier. All I have to do is keep my camera set to an incandescent setting and that it. Have little tweeks here and there in LR.
 
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It actually makes my life easier. All I have to do is keep my camera set to an incandescent setting and that it. Have little tweeks here and there in LR.

Guess everyone has their own preference...if it works for you and gets you the desired results that's what matters, I personally been shooting all sorts of different things (studio, club, weddings, portraits, kids, newborns, etc) for about 5 years and have never worried about WB or manually controlling my flash....two things I've found it's easier to let my camera handle, having a good understanding of them is great, don't get me wrong, but being that all images are PPed and all it takes is the slide of a bar left or right to fix, I don't see the point in concerning myself with it when I'm shooting...kudos to you.
 
I shoot jpeg so I only speak on that but I find that when you do harsh editing on photos, they show up in the pixels a lot more then if you were to only do some light edits. I've had some photos that were all jacked up with the white balance and I couldn't make them look natural for the life of me and everytime I edited with so many different adjustment layers, it showed in the pixels. Some colors just didn't blend blend right. That is my main reasoning for adjusting WB ahead of time because it makes the photo look more natural after edits.
 
Personally, I just search the web man... There are tons out there. A lot of people offer theirs in packs as well, all completely free.

Yea I googled it and found a bunch after I posted the question on here. :facepalm. Found a bunch.
 
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/a_mad_tea_party/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/a_mad_tea_party/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/a_mad_tea_party/

we are all mad here :wink:
 
I shoot jpeg so I only speak on that but I find that when you do harsh editing on photos, they show up in the pixels a lot more then if you were to only do some light edits. I've had some photos that were all jacked up with the white balance and I couldn't make them look natural for the life of me and everytime I edited with so many different adjustment layers, it showed in the pixels. Some colors just didn't blend blend right. That is my main reasoning for adjusting WB ahead of time because it makes the photo look more natural after edits.

That's your problem right there. Shoot RAW instead of jpeg. Jpeg is compressed so you don't have as much flexibility to work with them in post. Try shooting raw+jpeg. That way you can test the difference out. Raw will be dull and not as sharp, but once you throw it into post you will end up with a far better result than trying to edit the jpegs.
 
Here is my point, you guys jumped at the idea of WB adjustment and bringing a grey card to the club :lol:

Look you keep brining this up like thats what I said. Stop letting your imagination run wild. I figured the WB on his camera was off, so I suggested him reset it with a grey card. Not in the club, but in a well lit area. That should make sense to someone who has been shooting for "5 years" (we read it the first dozen times you posted it).

I agree that he should be shooting with his WB on Auto. I do not know if you are just that full of yourself to not admit that you were wrong in this situation. It was obviously the problem when he posted the screen shot. You keep bringing up ISO and Shutter speed. All I see is you posting is decent pictures with no issues. Prove your point by posting a picture with similar conditions where the ISO and shutter speed was the problem.
 
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