:::OFFICIAL SNEAKER CARE/MAINTENANCE POST::: (It's back!)

What is the best method for cleaning icy soles? More so the day to day maintenance cleaning one should go about with shoes like the Concords or Space Jams.
 
What is the best method for cleaning icy soles? More so the day to day maintenance cleaning one should go about with shoes like the Concords or Space Jams.
Good old dish washing soap water and a tooth brushing followed by an alcohol wipe down has never let me down for general cleaning.
Currently using Dawn Ultra Platinum if wondering.
 
Good old dish washing soap water and a tooth brushing followed by an alcohol wipe down has never let me down for general cleaning.
Currently using Dawn Ultra Platinum if wondering.
I use blue dawn for so many different things because it’s strong cleaner yet gentle on so many things. Like I use it to wash my motorcycle and it’s safe on all the different materials which there are many. Dawn Ultra platinum might also be like this I just have no idea. What made you choose it over blue dawn?
 
Good old dish washing soap water and a tooth brushing followed by an alcohol wipe down has never let me down for general cleaning.
Currently using Dawn Ultra Platinum if wondering.

An alcohol wipe at the end? Why is that?

Do you all fan dry or just let them sit and dry? I was always under the impression liquid sped the yellowing process up.
 
Dawn Ultra platinum might also be like this I just have no idea. What made you choose it over blue dawn?
No particular reason, just happend to be one of better soaps onhand at the time when picking up a new bottle for gen cleaning.

An alcohol wipe at the end? Why is that?
Do you all fan dry or just let them sit and dry? I was always under the impression liquid sped the yellowing process up.
Alcohol is great for any sole scuffs or deep dirt marks. Drive stick and from shifting the left shoe tends to get rub marks that normal soap cant get so i pull out the alcohol wash rag or a microfiber towel and gently work blemishes. Helps for down the road when going in for icing so im not having a nice looking sole but with deep blemishes here and there.
Yellowing is a natural process for whites and soles that isnt accelerated with cleaning or general wear. A shoe is far worse off sitting in a box untouched as allowing them to breath and conditioning the materials helps to strengthen and restore back to original state. Air drying works just fine.
 
No particular reason, just happend to be one of better soaps onhand at the time when picking up a new bottle for gen cleaning.


Alcohol is great for any sole scuffs or deep dirt marks. Drive stick and from shifting the left shoe tends to get rub marks that normal soap cant get so i pull out the alcohol wash rag or a microfiber towel and gently work blemishes. Helps for down the road when going in for icing so im not having a nice looking sole but with deep blemishes here and there.
Yellowing is a natural process for whites and soles that isnt accelerated with cleaning or general wear. A shoe is far worse off sitting in a box untouched as allowing them to breath and conditioning the materials helps to strengthen and restore back to original state. Air drying works just fine.
Natural yellowing is something I’d like to talk about also. It’s hard to experiment on what methods help limit it because it takes so long. I was watching a YouTube video where this dude puts his kicks in giant freezer bags and sucks the air out of them for storage and get this, brings them out of the bag once every 3 months to let them breathe. I can’t argue with his results because he had 5 year old clear soles without a hint (noticeable anyway) of yellowing.

I know it’s widely accepted that the normal shoe paper they put in most shoeboxes is no bueno for yellowing. And also humidity I’ve always heard but now we also know that using silica packets can dry out your shoes which is even worse if you ask me.

Where I live humidity is high. I’m not quite sure what to think about that and how I should store my shoes. Since coming back to my shoe obsession recently I’ve spent thousands and need to come up with a long term plan. I think I’m going to get those stackable plastic cases that you see. What do you think about those?

Also when it comes to conditioning I have no clue on that subject whatsoever and want to learn.

how do you feel about the Armor All Cleaning wipes? I’ve read great things about them for shoes lol

Armor All Car Interior Cleaner Wipes for Dirt & Dust - Cleaning for Cars & Truck & Motorcycle, 30 Count, 17497C Amazon product ASIN B00O9RLR9S
 
Was doing a rare browse on Facebook the other day and saw an ad for reshoevn8r ACRYLIC shoe containers. My god just like everything reshoevn8r it was crazy expensive. But I did start to think of there really were any advantages of storing shoes in those vs the typical plastic.
 
Also when it comes to conditioning I have no clue on that subject whatsoever and want to learn.

how do you feel about the Armor All Cleaning wipes? I’ve read great things about them for shoes lol

Armor All Car Interior Cleaner Wipes for Dirt & Dust - Cleaning for Cars & Truck & Motorcycle, 30 Count, 17497C Amazon product ASIN B00O9RLR9S
20200613_103356.jpg
this is what i use, forgot where i read armour all is not as suitable for leather shoes as these wipes
 
20200613_103356.jpg
this is what i use, forgot where i read armour all is not as suitable for leather shoes as these wipes
Thanks I will look into it thank you.

Oh hey my fellow enthusiasts I have a question about something I’m going to be looking into but maybe someone can help point me in a better direction. Is there anyway to remove or greatly lessen scuffs on patent leather? Like this below?

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Some great points thrown around so ill touch a bit on all of them.

Storage:
Zero experience on air locking* or whatever that process is technically called. May help but heres my two issues with it;
1. Materials need to breath, locking into plastic bags naturally works against that. It also leaves the shoes susceptible to transfer yellowing from the plastic itself since its so tightly wrapped. Think of it this way, plenty of us have plastic Tupperware products. Those same products are washed regularly and of course aired out in the cupboard. As such most of those products never tend yellow in my experience. This on a low scale is an example of conditioning.

2. I wear my shoes. There are plenty to work rotations but even in that im not going months or years without wearing a pair. If thats the case then they need to be in the hands of someone who will wear them or people who are ok with occasionally pulling them out to look at or putting on display. As such ziplocking is not practical or cost efficient.

Your 100% spot on storing wrapped in paper as that too causes transfer yellowing. Some recent shoes have this paper similar to waxed paper so perhaps thats fine in the long run but the way ive done it is line inside the box with either plastic or bubble wrap, I like bubble wrap myself and you can fold up the original paper and place under for additional padding. Thus the shoes are away from paper free to breathe and easily accessible for wear/conditioning. Your also spot on with those dry packets as those are an extreme no go. Your essentially removing the moisture from rubber and leather which leads to dry rot of the rubber and cracking of the upper/leather/paint. Humidity is also a problem but nowhere near as bad as complete removal of air. From experience with electronics and other rubber components a easy solution to that is running a basic dehumidifier every so often. Doesnt need to be daily but depending on location and AC circulation once a month over night has helped avoid those issues and also removes any stagnant air that may have set in.

Conditioning:
Ok so now this is where the average run of the mil car care products really come in handy. What were looking for are products geared specifically towards the material at hand. Rubber product for rubber components Leather product for leather components etc. Products marketed for shoe care for the most part in my experience are not necessary and tend to be over priced. Now lets say were running a full on retooling or restoration where we want to deeply condition the materials. For the leather/synthetic upper a good soak in quality product works and for rubber to prevent dry rot on 10yr+ shoes im gonna encourage yall to research a topic;
Vehicle restoration (rubber)

That process right there is the bulletproof gold standard in dry rot prevention and will work 100% of the time no matter how old a shoe is. Youll need some products specifically for that process which is why im encouraging to research the topic to get an idea of whats required and what we need do.
Feel free as always to drop any additional questions or to elaborate on anything you run across.
 
Some great points thrown around so ill touch a bit on all of them.

Storage:
Zero experience on air locking* or whatever that process is technically called. May help but heres my two issues with it;
1. Materials need to breath, locking into plastic bags naturally works against that. It also leaves the shoes susceptible to transfer yellowing from the plastic itself since its so tightly wrapped. Think of it this way, plenty of us have plastic Tupperware products. Those same products are washed regularly and of course aired out in the cupboard. As such most of those products never tend yellow in my experience. This on a low scale is an example of conditioning.

2. I wear my shoes. There are plenty to work rotations but even in that im not going months or years without wearing a pair. If thats the case then they need to be in the hands of someone who will wear them or people who are ok with occasionally pulling them out to look at or putting on display. As such ziplocking is not practical or cost efficient.

Your 100% spot on storing wrapped in paper as that too causes transfer yellowing. Some recent shoes have this paper similar to waxed paper so perhaps thats fine in the long run but the way ive done it is line inside the box with either plastic or bubble wrap, I like bubble wrap myself and you can fold up the original paper and place under for additional padding. Thus the shoes are away from paper free to breathe and easily accessible for wear/conditioning. Your also spot on with those dry packets as those are an extreme no go. Your essentially removing the moisture from rubber and leather which leads to dry rot of the rubber and cracking of the upper/leather/paint. Humidity is also a problem but nowhere near as bad as complete removal of air. From experience with electronics and other rubber components a easy solution to that is running a basic dehumidifier every so often. Doesnt need to be daily but depending on location and AC circulation once a month over night has helped avoid those issues and also removes any stagnant air that may have set in.

Conditioning:
Ok so now this is where the average run of the mil car care products really come in handy. What were looking for are products geared specifically towards the material at hand. Rubber product for rubber components Leather product for leather components etc. Products marketed for shoe care for the most part in my experience are not necessary and tend to be over priced. Now lets say were running a full on retooling or restoration where we want to deeply condition the materials. For the leather/synthetic upper a good soak in quality product works and for rubber to prevent dry rot on 10yr+ shoes im gonna encourage yall to research a topic;
Vehicle restoration (rubber)

That process right there is the bulletproof gold standard in dry rot prevention and will work 100% of the time no matter how old a shoe is. Youll need some products specifically for that process which is why im encouraging to research the topic to get an idea of whats required and what we need do.
Feel free as always to drop any additional questions or to elaborate on anything you run across.
I am using the acrylic box for my laser 4s that I got an Amazon which is way cheaper than a reshovn8r box. I think it's storing pretty damn well because there are small holes that allow it to breathe. It's also a dope box where you can just see the shoes

For conditioning are you saying car products may be stronger and effective than shoe products. Like a leather conditioning product?
 
No no no no no hell no lol.
Your right on target, yes it may momentarily help but in the long run eats away at the actual patent. Instead get ahold of product made for patent such as "Patent leather Rife" to buff out scuffs.
Thank you I will look into it! So much good info in here I’m loving it lol
 
I am using the acrylic box for my laser 4s that I got an Amazon which is way cheaper than a reshovn8r box. I think it's storing pretty damn well because there are small holes that allow it to breathe. It's also a dope box where you can just see the shoes

For conditioning are you saying car products may be stronger and effective than shoe products. Like a leather conditioning product?
I looked briefly on amazon which is usually my go to, for storage but ultimately found myself on containerstore.com from looking on Reddit I think but that was before I even knew about the acrylic boxes. Good to know!

I do plan on wearing all of my shoes even the doubles and triples. Years ago I had the philosophy of wearing one pair and keeping the others on ice until later but now I want to rotate them all to avoid issues with a years old DS shoe.
 
I looked briefly on amazon which is usually my go to, for storage but ultimately found myself on containerstore.com from looking on Reddit I think but that was before I even knew about the acrylic boxes. Good to know!

I do plan on wearing all of my shoes even the doubles and triples. Years ago I had the philosophy of wearing one pair and keeping the others on ice until later but now I want to rotate them all to avoid issues with a years old DS shoe.

Talking about it makes me want to buy another one lol it's a dope display case! I like the see-through all around box
 
For conditioning are you saying car products may be stronger and effective than shoe products. Like a leather conditioning product?
Exactly.
My experience has been most of that stuff is gimmick. Plus i love detailing the ride so auto care product is always onhand for the same materials used on shoes; rubber plastic leather synthetics UV protectant etc so im hard pressed to believe something designed for shoes will work better.
 
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Congratulations on getting hands on your personal grails as its a damn good feeling. Now by sole replacement are you saying the tread itself is ate up and need be replaced or are you saying the adhesive need be reapplied?
Just trying to get where your coming from to provide the best answer, feel free to drop a photo or two as well so we can see what your working with.
Bottoms are slick. Tread gone in some spots.
 
it cost $32! here's the amazon link:

Amazon product ASIN B01K8VZK2I
For some reason the link doesn’t work. I couldn’t post an amazon link either btw. I don’t see one for $32 but just started looking. I definitely want them stackable and holes on the front and/or back so they can breathe while stacked. And the opening lid from the front so you can remove any shoe while they’re all still stacked.

EDIT: I think I’m gonna go with plastic and save a bunch of money on a bunch of containers. As long as it’s not tight on the shoes and not paper right? Like here is a stack of 4 of em with the drop front opening and the large hole in the front for air. 4 for $50 which is still kinda expensive but these look pretty good and it’s a one time cost. I will still look around!

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