:::OFFICIAL SNEAKER CARE/MAINTENANCE POST::: (It's back!)

Great Job on these, I have a pair in the same yellowed condition, Ima try that also.

Keep posting guys, let's keep this thread rolling and back up sharing tips.

I will post some pics Thursday when I'm off, I'm going to start icing some soles.

I went with RaleighRestoration for the sole sauce. I've heard great things, and they have good customer service and fast shipping.
Hell yeah dude I will be monitoring this thread. Looking forward to seeing icy sole restoration and how that sauce works for you.
 
So I will be trying to use the sauce to ice up the soles for my Pearl Foams.
I’m still researching which is the best glue to use to put the soles back on.

I can’t start yet, it’s been windy and cloudy here, but tomorrow will be sunny.

54E35698-96E7-47ED-9B00-12BF843B31A4.jpeg
 
So I will be trying to use the sauce to ice up the soles for my Pearl Foams.
I’m still researching which is the best glue to use to put the soles back on.

I can’t start yet, it’s been windy and cloudy here, but tomorrow will be sunny.

54E35698-96E7-47ED-9B00-12BF843B31A4.jpeg

when you find that glue, do tell..... Trying to restore OG Red/Black F's
 
I remember you from way back circa 2004 btw. You did a great job on this sole swap and restoration. How are they holding up? I would love to learn how to do a sole swap on my 2000 fire red 5s if I could get a cheap pair of icy 2013s.
Still holding up good and have been wearing them a lot. Sole swappings not too big of a job you just need a lot of patience. I watched a lot of youtube videos before trying it.
 
how can one clean nike vandals the canvas ones? the color is green
 
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Barge infinity cement, 4 oz. is plenty and you can get it on eBay for $17.


Thanks Man!

Yea looks like Barge is the way to go from what I've been reading.

I'll post pics of my Pearl soles soon, Day 2 and I'm starting to see a difference for sure.
 
8C4D0A58-1643-4EED-80C2-54BD822A5797.jpeg

C0D3BDA3-694A-4980-BDFF-F70193FF178C.jpeg


oldest shoe in the closet, had em since 03' glad i never let them go

glued the toe box since it was ripping, bout to bleach the laces later then back on the feet...nike needs to make more vandals btw

Nice. What method did you use for the soles?
 
Wsup everyone! Just started getting back into restoring with all this spare time due to COVID. I'm charging people right now for icing and repaints. Any homemade recipes for sole sauce out there? I am currently using sole sauce from angelus which works pretty good and Salon 40 care, which I had a problem with because it kind of bleached the rubber on some varsity 6s. Just trying to get some feedback from other fellow restorers!

I also have been using the outdoor method but am very interesting in doing the indoor method. The indoor method seems chill as everyone recommends veg lights of at least 1000w and a simple box. Would appreciate some info or conversation from anyone!

If you also have questions on restoring hit me up!
 
Hey all. Haven’t posted on here in forever. I apologize, I wasn’t able to find anything browsing the thread. Any tips on unyellowing the off white Chicago 1 mesh and side panels? Oxi clean?
 
Hey all. Haven’t posted on here in forever. I apologize, I wasn’t able to find anything browsing the thread. Any tips on unyellowing the off white Chicago 1 mesh and side panels? Oxi clean?
Did a post in the Bred thread towards the bottom.

Reintroducing a bluing agent is the primary thing following a wash cycle. However i will say im at a bit of a stalemate with a pair of Mamba day 11s, just cannot seem to whiten those.
People were talking about best adhesives earlier and just wanna add that typically the issue is in how we apply the adhesive. Havent had an issue since dialing in the how and currently use Angeluses clear cement but use to 3Ms auto adhesive without problem.
 
Did a post in the Bred thread towards the bottom.

Reintroducing a bluing agent is the primary thing following a wash cycle. However i will say im at a bit of a stalemate with a pair of Mamba day 11s, just cannot seem to whiten those.
People were talking about best adhesives earlier and just wanna add that typically the issue is in how we apply the adhesive. Havent had an issue since dialing in the how and currently use Angeluses clear cement but use to 3Ms auto adhesive without problem.

That's hardcore. Thanks for the detailed instructions. Are you in the sneaker restoration business, or do you just do this for your own personal collection.
 
That's hardcore. Thanks for the detailed instructions. Are you in the sneaker restoration business, or do you just do this for your own personal collection.
No problems good Sir, love to help out the community whenever possible. Have been restoring/maintaining my personal collection thus far, its taken alot of experimentation and never wanted to mess anyones grails up before dialing the different techniques in.
 
Happy Tuesday!

Hope all of ya'll are safe and well!
Anyone have advice on techniques to preserve durabuck from flaking? Conditioner or moisturizer solution, brands? I know it's synthetic and its a tricky material. Once it dries it's cooked but Im hopeful someone here has an answer . Thanks!
 
Happy Tuesday!

Hope all of ya'll are safe and well!
Anyone have advice on techniques to preserve durabuck from flaking? Conditioner or moisturizer solution, brands? I know it's synthetic and its a tricky material. Once it dries it's cooked but Im hopeful someone here has an answer . Thanks!
Hopefully someone else will chime in who actually owns a pair of durabuck shoes however considering it is a synthetic something you may wanna give a go is Trinovas Faux leather conditioner/cleaner.
Use it on some of the synthetic models on hand and works really well to keep them conditioned.
 
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Hopefully someone else will chime in who actually owns a pair of durabuck shoes however considering it is a synthetic something you may wanna give a go is Trinovas Faux leather conditioner/cleaner.
Use it on some of the synthetic models on hand and works really well to keep them conditioned.
View attachment 2584345
Felt like adding onto the mesh post reply from the other day.
After breaking them out yesterday i felt as though i could get the white just a bit more crisp since running this technique out on a pair of 96 Grant Hills and having great results.
This is a post wash cycle technique...
After brushing off any dirt on the sole went ahead and soaked them in water along with a half cup vinegar over night.
Cold rinse and prepare the bluing agent in this case Mrs. Stewarts but honestly any dye along with vinegar or an acid based dye in water will do.
Youll want to actual see the solution so i use a gentleman's glass.
Add enough dye to the water making it almost deep blue while contained but goes on rather clear when applied with paint brush.
Dip and liberally brush directly on the mesh itself then apply in similar fashion some white vinegar. Optional but even though the patent is conditioned from before i wrapped a towel around the toe and set out under direct sunlight to air dry. The vinegar smell will be burnt away by the sun.
Feel free to repeat the process until the mesh is bluish similar to the photo. Something learned is that nylon has a very high resistance to dyeing and so getting it to that hue will really ensure very crisp results likened to the 96s below.

After a day in the sun is finished lightly hot followed by cold rinse the mesh, preference is with a toothbrush. Were not resaturating here just brushing away any dust excess dye and such with hot followed by locking the dye in with the cold water.
And your done. Bloat dry the insides and such and set out to air dry over night, bonus points for setting under uv lights, 60 up top 30 to the front is whats in garage corner as pictured.

If for whatever reason the mark has been missed and things are a bit too blue never fear as a short hot ammonia soak will help dial things back, just keep an eye because itll strip the dye completely if left in too long.

View attachment 2584404

View attachment 2584405
Basically whats going on here is drizzling* helps force additional dye into the fabric by way of sunlight/uv vinegar and dye if for instance post wash/soak/dry they came out a little duller then desired. Always wait until the outer at minimum is fully dry as the fabric will typically look very different immediately following vs fully dried. As usual ive probably left something out so feel free to toss up any questions either here or direct.
Thank you so much!
 
Hopefully someone else will chime in who actually owns a pair of durabuck shoes however considering it is a synthetic something you may wanna give a go is Trinovas Faux leather conditioner/cleaner.
Use it on some of the synthetic models on hand and works really well to keep them conditioned.
View attachment 2584345
Felt like adding onto the mesh post reply from the other day.
After breaking them out yesterday i felt as though i could get the white just a bit more crisp since running this technique out on a pair of 96 Grant Hills and having great results.
This is a post wash cycle technique...
After brushing off any dirt on the sole went ahead and soaked them in water along with a half cup vinegar over night.
Cold rinse and prepare the bluing agent in this case Mrs. Stewarts but honestly any dye along with vinegar or an acid based dye in water will do.
Youll want to actual see the solution so i use a gentleman's glass.
Add enough dye to the water making it almost deep blue while contained but goes on rather clear when applied with paint brush.
Dip and liberally brush directly on the mesh itself then apply in similar fashion some white vinegar. Optional but even though the patent is conditioned from before i wrapped a towel around the toe and set out under direct sunlight to air dry. The vinegar smell will be burnt away by the sun.
Feel free to repeat the process until the mesh is bluish similar to the photo. Something learned is that nylon has a very high resistance to dyeing and so getting it to that hue will really ensure very crisp results likened to the 96s below.

After a day in the sun is finished lightly hot followed by cold rinse the mesh, preference is with a toothbrush. Were not resaturating here just brushing away any dust excess dye and such with hot followed by locking the dye in with the cold water.
And your done. Bloat dry the insides and such and set out to air dry over night, bonus points for setting under uv lights, 60 up top 30 to the front is whats in garage corner as pictured.

If for whatever reason the mark has been missed and things are a bit too blue never fear as a short hot ammonia soak will help dial things back, just keep an eye because itll strip the dye completely if left in too long.

View attachment 2584404

View attachment 2584405
Basically whats going on here is drizzling* helps force additional dye into the fabric by way of sunlight/uv vinegar and dye if for instance post wash/soak/dry they came out a little duller then desired. Always wait until the outer at minimum is fully dry as the fabric will typically look very different immediately following vs fully dried. As usual ive probably left something out so feel free to toss up any questions either here or direct.
Thank you !!!! I’ve read that the whitest whites have a hint of blue in it
 
No problems good Sir, love to help out the community whenever possible. Have been restoring/maintaining my personal collection thus far, its taken alot of experimentation and never wanted to mess anyones grails up before dialing the different techniques in.
Just read your post in the bred 11 thread and holy **** I will definitely be taking notes and following your instructions on whitening the concord mesh.
 
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