Dressing Better Vol 2.0

pinoy732 · Jul 18, 2012

It's been going on for awhile that people were getting bored with the old db thread and that some initiative needed to be taken to start a new one. Rather than waiting for niidawg or rfx to bring us salvation, figured why not stop talking and make it. Especially with the change of platform to the new NT, a couple hundred pages or so are missing out so i give to you, Dressing Better Vol 2.0

In here i hope that we can all share ideas and criticisms to help build a wardrobe suited to our environments and own personalities. So please NT, share your outfits, questions, dilemmas and what not and enjoy the new DB

The Collective Blog

http://ntscollective.tumblr.com

here's an overview, courtesy of wj4
Introduction: While a well fitting suit should be the foundation of a man’s wardrobe, “dressing better” does not mean you have to wear suits every day. The purpose of the thread is to assist you in creating an aesthetic around classic/timeless inspired items. Fashion is fickle, it changes. Styles are forever. Ideally, we want you to develop a look you can wear 5 or 10 years from now. In addition to this thread, we want members to gain exposure via blogs, magazines, etc. to different types of styles and create a look they can be comfortable in because confidence is the best thing you can wear.

We encourage members to participate, however we do ask everyone to be respectful and keep the thread positive. Members who do not follow the protocol will be reported accordingly.

From assessing the former thread in addition to this thread, it appears that the major demographic is in the age bracket of late teens to late 20s. Given that we know who the major demographic consists of, we will focus the post around the group. This post will cover basic information that is often asked. If your question is not answered here, please feel free to make a post and ask!

Some of the members’ favorite shops include: Banana Republic, J. Crew, Zara, H&M, Uniqlo, Levi’s, Gap, Target, and Macy’s.

**If you are starting off fresh AKA redoing your entire wardrobe, we recommend starting off with colors and patterns that are versatile. You should stick with colors like blue, gray, and beige and patterns that are mundane than flamboyant such as gingham and vertical stripes (Please see below for a comprehensive of different types of patterns for shirts). While the colors of blue, gray, and beige may appear to be limiting, your choices are surprisingly vast. For example, let us use navy blue as an example. There are a plethora of hues that fall under navy blue; on one end you have a slightly deep royal tone, and on the other end, you have a very dark blue that is almost black.**

1. SUITS
Your first two suits should be navy and dark gray. What suit you should buy first? That is ultimately up to you. The reason being is that these two colors are very versatile, and can be mixed with each other to create new looks. Navy is timeless, in almost all cultures. Dark gray is versatile and close enough to black to wear to more formal events. Both look good with nearly every other color under the sun. Given our demographic, it is recommended you go with a modern 1 or 2 button jacket for the suit.
Suit sizing: Suits will come in sizes such as 38R, 40S, 44L. The first number refers to chest measurement, and the S, R, L refer to Small, Regular, Long (respectively). A 38S, 38R, and 38L will all fit the same width-wise, but the Regular will have longer sleeves than the Small, and the Long will have longer sleeves than the Regular.
If your chest is in between size, you should get one that fits you well in other places such as the shoulders, arm width, length of the jacket. You can always have a tailor take in the width of the jacket and other minor tweaks.

The traditional train of thought is that the jacket is supposed to be long enough to cover your rear, but there is actually no set length. The length of the jacket should be proportional to your height. You may want to ensure that the jacket is not too short though, or else it may seem too fashion forward, unless that is what you are going for.
If you are buying your first suit, you may want to skip functional buttons on the sleeves. This means that you can actually button/unbutton the buttons from the holes. The reason is that if you need to shorten/lengthen your sleeves, it is extremely harder with functional buttons.

For the length of the jacket’s sleeves, it is up to your preference. Some prefer the length to be just as long as their shirt sleeves so nothing show. Others prefer to have the length just cover the wrist bones so ¼ to 1 inch of the shirt under shows through. Some want a more dramatic effect with a lot showing. The following will show practically from no visibility, a bit visibility, and dramatic visibility.

No visibility: http://s7d4.scene7.com/is/image/BrooksBrothers/MK00005_NAVY_1?$ProductImages$
A little: http://s7.jcrew.com/is/image/jcrew/25269_BR6878_m?$pdp_fs418$
Dramatic: http://s7d4.scene7.com/is/image/BrooksBrothers/MK00006_TAN?$ProductImages$

For trousers, we want to accomplish a slim and flattering silhouette here, not skinny or baggy. To establish the look, it is best to have minimal break or no break at all. This means that you should not have excess material of your pants bunching up on your shoes/boots.

These are good:
http://s7.jcrew.com/is/image/jcrew/91031_BR6878_m?$pdp_fs418$
http://s7.jcrew.com/is/image/jcrew/16561_GY6480_s?$pdp_fs418$
http://i47.tinypic.com/33zd75g.jpg

This one is bad, too much material bunching on top of the shoes:
http://i45.tinypic.com/358rryq.jpg

2. SHIRTS
There are two categories here: Dress shirts and sport shirts. Dress shirts are more formal, the length is usually longer. It is long enough to cover your entire rear because it is meant to be tucked in. There are slots under the collar to insert collar stays. Use collar stays to keep your collars straight and from bending. Sport shirts are more casual, usually shorter in length which is meant to be worn untucked.

Dress shirts may come in regular sizes such as small, medium, and large. They may also come in sizes such as 14.5 x 33, 15 x 35. The first number indicates the measurement around the neck, and the second number shows the measurement from the shoulder down to the arm.

How do I know if my shirt fits properly? The sleeves should be long enough that they cover your wrist bones, but they should not be passing the meat of your palms. This is a good example of an appropriate length: http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m7l9sdivTA1qad1efo1_500.jpg

You also want to have a slim fitting silhouette overall. You do not want to have a spandex tight fitting shirt, or a shirt that makes you look bloated. The key is slim fitting that gives you a bit of room for movement. A good test is that the buttons on your shirt should not be prying apart when you sit down.

Something like this is most likely too tight around the width: http://s7.jcrew.com/is/image/jcrew/53368_GY6104_m?$pdp_fs418$
Something like this is too baggy and loose:
http://www.robbinssports.com/images/port-authority-TLS608-tall-long-sleeve-easy-care-shirt.jpg

This is a better alternative as you have a bit of fabric to allow for movement:
http://s7.jcrew.com/is/image/jcrew/48447_BL8595_m?$pdp_fs418$

When buying a shirt, the most important aspects are to ensure that the length of the sleeves fit you properly and the circumference of the neck fits you well. You should be able to just stick a finger in between your collar and neck when all the buttons are buttoned. If the width of the sleeves is too baggy or the width of the shirt itself is too loose, a tailor can easily take care of that for you for a relatively low cost.

Accessories:
If you plan on wearing a tie with your suit, it is best to make sure that the widest point of the tie is at or near the same measurement as the lapel’s width on the jacket to stay in proportion. Example: Wearing a skinny tie with a suit that has 4” lapel will look weird because nothing is in proportion.

Example: The difference in the width of the tie and lapel is too great, looks unbalanced. http://zipperties.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/black-skinny-ties.jpg

Acceptable differences:
http://i50.tinypic.com/1zpnpkx.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/1zlviqg.jpg
You should also wear a belt that correlates with the footwear or outfit. It is understandable that sometimes you may not have a belt to match the exact shade of the shoes you are wearing. At this point, ensure that the belt either compliments the shoes or your ensemble.
Please note that other accessories such as pocket squares and lapel pins are left out intentionally as they are usually not necessary and this is an introduction post.

from wj4's findings:
(link http://www.styleforum.net/t/308529/shirting-patterns-by-christina-lee)

F. Corbera said:
This is by Christina Lee at Alexander West.
Shirt Pattern List

Many variations of the major patterns exist as designers are constantly trying to come up with new and different styles. Shirt patterns are often enhanced or can be a combination of different patterns. These are the classic pattern choices.
CHECKS
Gingham - Gingham usually comes in a checkered pattern and is distinguished by white and colored, even-sized checks. This pattern is formed by horizontal and vertical stripes (usually of the same color) that cross each other on a white background to form even checks. Gingham originated as a striped pattern when it was first imported in the 17th century and had become woven into a check pattern during the mid-18th century, with blue and white being the most popular choice in color.

Madras - Madras is a pattern that originated in a city in East India, formerly named Madras. This summer fabric style is distinguished by a pattern of colorful checks and stripes. The stripes of a madras check or plaid consist of different colored stripes that cross each other to form uneven checks. Madras has become a popular “preppy” pattern for shorts and casual shirts.

Tartan Plaid - Tartan plaid is the pattern that is most often found on Scottish kilts. This plaid consists of vertical and horizontal or diagonal stripes that cross each other to form different sized checks. This pattern is often done in a twill-weave and should only be used as a casual shirt.

Shepherd’s check - This pattern is a twill-weave of small, even-sized, colored and white checks. While this check often resembles the gingham check, the visible twill weave is what distinguishes the shepherd’s check from gingham. The name derives from the plaid worn by shepherds in the hills of the Scottish borders. The hounds tooth pattern originated from the Shepherd’s check.

Houndstooth - The houndstooth pattern has a similar pattern featured in the Shepherd’s check and Glen plaid. The checks that make up the houndstooth are broken/uneven and pointy-shaped (like a hound’s tooth). The houndstooth pattern is traditionally black and white but can be found in a variety of colors and on a variety of garments and accessories nowadays.

Glen Plaid/Prince of Wales Check - Glen plaid, also known as the Prince of Wales check, is a pattern most commonly found in suits. It is woven in a twill pattern and consists of broken checks where a conglomerate of alternating dark stripes and light stripes cross each other to create a pattern of small and large checks. This pattern is usually done in a muted color with white.

Windowpane Check - The windowpane check is a pattern that resembles the pattern of panes on a window. The stripes that cross to form windowpane checks are often thicker and farther apart than the pattern found in graph checks.

Graph Check - This is a check pattern that resembles the crossing lines of graph paper. The graph check pattern is characterized by solid, thin, single-colored stripes that cross each other to form even and small-sized checks. The stripes that create a graph check are thinner than the stripes in a windowpane check.

Tattersall - Tatersall is a check pattern that consists of thin, regularly spaced stripes in alternating colors that are repeated both horizontally and vertically. The stripes that create the tatersall pattern often come in two different colors and are usually darker than the background color.

Mini-check - This is a pattern consisting of very small and even sized checks. It usually consists of one color with white and often resembles the gingham check-except that it’s a lot smaller. This pattern is more casual than stripes, but dressier than larger checks.

[

Pin check - is is a pattern created by pin sized stripes (about 1 yarn thick) that cross to form tiny checks that look like dots to the human eye. This pattern often consists of one color with white. This small check effect gives the shirt a textured solid effect.

STRIPES
Awning Stripe - Awning stripes are the widest sized stripes that can be found on shirts. These vertical and even stripes are often wider than ¼” and usually consist of solid colored stripes on white. The name derives from the wide stripe pattern found on awning fabrics. Wider stripes tend to be used mostly for casual shirts.

Bengal - Bengal stripes vertical stripes that are narrower than awning stripes but wider than candy stripes (approximately ¼” in width). Bengal stripes usually consist of solid colored stripes on white.

Candy Stripe - Candy stripes are vertical and even stripes that are wider than pencil stripes but thinner than Bengal stripes. Candy stripes are usually about 1/8” in width and are characterized by solid, bold stripes on white. The name derives from the stripe pattern found on stick candy.

Pencil Stripe - Pencil stripes, also referred to as dress stripes, are often thinner than candy stripes but wider than pinstripes. The width between the stripes varies from shirt to shirt and the stripes are almost always uneven (more white than color).

Pin stripe - Pin stripes are thin, vertical stripes that are narrower than pencil stripes. Pin stripes are usually one to two yarns thick and are sometimes broken. The widths between the stripes vary but are always wider apart than hairline stripes.

Hairline Stripe - Hairline stripes are thin stripes that are about the width of a hair. Hairline stripes are spaced very close together which gives the shirt a textured solid effect. This effect makes this a flexible pattern for shirts.

Bar Code Stripe - The bar code stripe pattern consists of different sized stripes that are closely spaced together. This pattern resembles the lines on a bar code-hence its name. Bar code stripes usually consist of 2 colors or varied tones of one color.

Shadow Stripe - Shadow stripes consist of vertical stripes with another stripe directly adjacent to it or bordering it- creating a shadow effect. Shadow stripes generally vary in width and usually consist of two or three different colors.

Special thanks to Nicole Kabbaz for working with us on putting this list together.

Researched and written by Christina Lee.

Email [email protected] or call 262-284-7158
Request for a list to be sent over of all available models in your size and width
Upon receiving the list, search google for interested models
To place order, call number listed above. You will give your CC info and shoes will be shipped within a few days.

Personal experience, within US, orders should arrive in under a week

supraman1784 · Jul 18, 2012

good looks, i did notice a lot of the pages were missing in the og thread.

aceofjays · Jul 18, 2012

I had a feeling this would happen lol

wj4 · Jul 18, 2012

Ah, you beat me to it. I'll post what I have in an hour or two. I'm typing it up on MS Word at the moment to prevent a glitch while posting AKA everything got erased, I'll do my best to re-read it but the brain is kinda fried at the moment.

grizzlyboy · Jul 18, 2012

Just picked up a Navy Blue Slim CK suit from Marshall's for $119. I figured what the hell. I will definitely post pics when I get it back from alterations.

redbox · Jul 18, 2012

SupraMan1784 said:
good looks, i did notice a lot of the pages were missing in the og thread.

ksteezy · Jul 18, 2012

cmon bros, all talk and no fits!...lol....ill be the first, bitter-sweet feeling to have a new thread, something special about the last one, but today is the day for change....anyhow i put together some of the last fits i put together, which were posted in the past thread.

retrospect90 · Jul 19, 2012

Do all of you all dress how YOU want and not worry about what people say? I know everyone says they do but deep down some think about whats in style or what people think. The only reason I ask is because I'm a pretty simple t-shirt and shorts kind of guy or hoody and sweats when it's cold. I was thinking about changing it up a little but I don't want to seem like I'm trying to be something I'm not or be out of my comfort zone and conform to what other people think I should dress like. So what are some ideas to dress better but still keep it real simple.

wj4 · Jul 19, 2012

I will continue to pitch it when time permits. I did not cover all of the basics, but here's a start:

I dislike the term “dressing better” because I feel like it’s a misrepresentation. I feel this thread has, in the past and will continue to be a mixture of timeless men’s wear attire mixed in with an avant garde twist. I will cover the basic components in this post, and I welcome anyone and everyone to participate. Please try to keep the thread positive and don’t ruin it for the sake of trolling. I will link to entries I’ve written in the past that I think may be helpful.

Suits:
A suit is a jacket and trousers made out of the same material in the same color so there can be many kind of suits; denim suit, leather suit, etc. It is in your best interest to buy the suit as a set. Don’t try to buy a blue jacket that’s on sale and attempt to match a blue pair of trousers to it; it will be nearly impossible to match them up unless you happen to get the same trousers that were a part of the suit.

There are several types of jackets:
You have a one button jacket: http://www.porhomme.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/kitsune-one-button-formal-jacket-ss2011-2.jpg

You have a two button jacket: http://skayweddingday.files.wordpre...tton-suit-jacket-with-double-vented-back.jpeg

You have a three button jacket: http://content.nordstrom.com/ImageGallery/store/product/Gigantic/6/_5418606.jpg

You have a 3 roll onto 2 jacket; which means there are three buttons, but the top button is not meant to be used, it is there for aesthetic purposes: http://www.esquire.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/DSC_1881-500x752.jpg

You also have a couple of types of pocket choices:

You have the traditional, which just show the flaps: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_y1AaCCgGL...u0/ZmJCP33rR1o/s640/Web-Sport-Coat-16-001.jpg

You have patch pockets with the flaps: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_y1AaCCgGL...u0/ZmJCP33rR1o/s640/Web-Sport-Coat-16-001.jpg

You have patch pockets by themselves: http://www.openingceremony.us/pimg/61689_1.jpg

The patch pockets are for more casual jackets.

Blog entry on different routes you can go about when buying a suit:

Shirts:
When it comes to collar shirts, you have dress shirts and sport shirts. The definitions vary, but to me a dress shirt is more structured and longer in length because it is meant to be tucked in. A sport shirt is shorter in length and comes in colorful variations. It also does not have places to house the collar stays under the collar.
There a variety of collars, but I will keep it simple and discuss three here.

Regular, versatile and mundane: http://i00.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/123793906/Men_Business_Shirt_100_Cotton_Regular_Collar.jpg

Spread, looks great with a tie, but some think it looks weird when not worn with a tie:
http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/SpooPoker/aa4d347e.jpg

Button down collar, probably the most liked since it looks good with a tie and without:
http://www.whitedressshirts.com/shirt_med/mSIBBDRC.jpg

Shoes/boots:
Quality footwear is something you shouldn’t skimp on. They can last for decades with the proper care. The favorite choice here is Allen Edmonds because they are a great bang for the buck. Look for shoes/boots that are Goodyear welted. I’ve written several entries regarding shoes so I’ll link them accordingly.

Construction:

Styles:

Common materials:

Different types of lasts: http://wisith.tumblr.com/post/26746556660/the-battle-of-the-lasts-to-the-majority-of-the

Miscellaneous entries:

Finding a tailor: http://wisith.tumblr.com/post/26475481769/finding-a-good-tailor-is-imperative-theres-a

Slim fitting that flatters the body, but not spandex tight: http://wisith.tumblr.com/post/23914693131/slim-fitting-but-not-skin-hugging-one-of-the

solarius49 · Jul 19, 2012

I posted this in the other thread, but where can I get some shoes that are the Stubbs and Wooton style at a lower price point?

wj4 · Jul 19, 2012

retrospect90 said:
Do all of you all dress how YOU want and not worry about what people say? I know everyone says they do but deep down some think about whats in style or what people think. The only reason I ask is because I'm a pretty simple t-shirt and shorts kind of guy or hoody and sweats when it's cold. I was thinking about changing it up a little but I don't want to seem like I'm trying to be something I'm not or be out of my comfort zone and conform to what other people think I should dress like. So what are some ideas to dress better but still keep it real simple.

Yes. You need to develop your own style or else you won't be comfortable in it, which defeats the whole point. I carry a pouch with me that houses my cell phones, pen, etc. and I know that all of the teens must question my sexuality when I walk by them, but I couldn't care less.

Develop your own style:

Also wrote on "street wear" because it extends to more than what most NTers think:

RE: your ideas, there's TONS. Try a leather jacket, or varsity jacket and pair with a sport shirt, plain dark jeans and simple sneakers and you're golden. You can also incorporate cardigans in there, it's the hoody's bigger brother.

Ksteez: If I post up my outfit pictures, people will complain again, haha. They're uploaded daily and are on the blog.

retrospect90 · Jul 19, 2012

Thanks Wj4

cj003 · Jul 19, 2012

retrospect90 said:
Do all of you all dress how YOU want and not worry about what people say? I know everyone says they do but deep down some think about whats in style or what people think. The only reason I ask is because I'm a pretty simple t-shirt and shorts kind of guy or hoody and sweats when it's cold. I was thinking about changing it up a little but I don't want to seem like I'm trying to be something I'm not or be out of my comfort zone and conform to what other people think I should dress like. So what are some ideas to dress better but still keep it real simple.

Yes and No. I work in a court house, so its kind of hood. Dudes be wearing them zoot (sp) suits, and linen shorts sets and **** to court. When I pass by I hear people say crap like "damn dude bought that suit too damn small" when in actuality its a slim suit b/c im a slim guy. My fit is on point w/ most people on here. So, I dont care what people who have no clue about style and dressing formally think.

I do listen to the opinions of stylish people though. I usually lurk this thread, but it has been very helpful to me. I'm horrible with colors when it comes to suits! HORRIBLE! If it wasn't for NT and other fashion outlets I'd wear nothing but white dress ***** and solid colored ties, b/c I don't want to look like an idiot and dont know what the hell I'm doing. Listening to the RIGHT people has allowed to to step out of my comfort zone and step my dress game up.

Dressing "better" is a process. It'll be a little uncomfortable at first. I usually wear jeans/camo shorts and a t-shirt when I'm not at work or a club. For me its about dressing right for the occasion. Nothing wrong w/ dressing down for simple stuff. Others may disagree, a lot of dudes in here wear fitted shorts and dress shirts as comfortable gear. I personally don't get down like that. Do whats comfortable to you and be able to dress for any occasion is how I do it.

peep tha sneaks · Jul 19, 2012

i need to find a good tailor in San Diego. Anyone?

ballahb · Jul 19, 2012

retrospect90 · Jul 19, 2012

CJ003 said:
Yes and No. I work in a court house, so its kind of hood. Dudes be wearing them zoot (sp) suits, and linen shorts sets and **** to court. When I pass by I hear people say crap like "damn dude bought that suit too damn small" when in actuality its a slim suit b/c im a slim guy. My fit is on point w/ most people on here. So, I dont care what people who have no clue about style and dressing formally think.
I do listen to the opinions of stylish people though. I usually lurk this thread, but it has been very helpful to me. I'm horrible with colors when it comes to suits! HORRIBLE! If it wasn't for NT and other fashion outlets I'd wear nothing but white dress ***** and solid colored ties, b/c I don't want to look like an idiot and dont know what the hell I'm doing. Listening to the RIGHT people has allowed to to step out of my comfort zone and step my dress game up.

I feel it, cause I definitely hate seeing dudes in them Chopper suits. Apart of me is like well that's what they wanna wear then whatever and on the other hand I'm like what the heck were they thinking?

wj4 · Jul 19, 2012

CJ003 said:
Yes and No. I work in a court house, so its kind of hood. Dudes be wearing them zoot (sp) suits, and linen shorts sets and **** to court. When I pass by I hear people say crap like "damn dude bought that suit too damn small" when in actuality its a slim suit b/c im a slim guy. My fit is on point w/ most people on here. So, I dont care what people who have no clue about style and dressing formally think.
I do listen to the opinions of stylish people though. I usually lurk this thread, but it has been very helpful to me. I'm horrible with colors when it comes to suits! HORRIBLE! If it wasn't for NT and other fashion outlets I'd wear nothing but white dress ***** and solid colored ties, b/c I don't want to look like an idiot and dont know what the hell I'm doing. Listening to the RIGHT people has allowed to to step out of my comfort zone and step my dress game up.

When you're dressed outside the norm, you will draw attention, my man. You will have those who give you props and comment on you. You will also have those who say something like "that boy sure likes playing dress up, I wonder if he likes girls". You just gotta worry about yourself and ignore them. Also, participate more in the thread!

Style is fickle, man. It changes so much that's why it's important to develop your own style because styles are timeless.

Check out this picture of J. Kissi and friends, by all standards Travis (the dude to the far left) would get hated on because he's wearing a suit with work boots, but I doubt they care much and they're doing pretty well.

wj4 · Jul 19, 2012

PS any of my gents on Tumblr? If so, post up links

solarius49 · Jul 19, 2012

peep tha sneaKs said:
i need to find a good tailor in San Diego. Anyone?

I get all my stuff done in Oceanside. Alot of military tailors who do really good work for a good price. If you're ever up that way, hit up Jeanettes

peep tha sneaks · Jul 19, 2012

Thanks. Kinda far for me now. I just moved down from there too. lol

retrospect90 · Jul 19, 2012

I like this thread, I will try to contribute and check often. I will be going shopping for some more fall/winter clothes at the end of August. I will post pickups. Also can some of you guys that shop a lot post links to sales that may be going on online?

wj4 · Jul 19, 2012

retrospect90 said:
I like this thread, I will try to contribute and check often. I will be going shopping for some more fall/winter clothes at the end of August. I will post pickups. Also can some of you guys that shop a lot post links to sales that may be going on online?

That's a part of the thread. Members post up sales, coupons, sample sales, etc.