:::OFFICIAL SNEAKER CARE/MAINTENANCE POST::: (It's back!)

[T_p_Hill]

Which Jordans crumble?

Any shoe can crumble given time, the most important part is to condition the materials over time otherwise they dry out and begin the breakdown process.
Though some models say for instance the 4s midsoles are prone to crumble due to the specific rubber used, as long as we get to them prior to that drying out were good to go. Have yet to have a single pair crumble with my oldest being 26 and look to continue that streak.
Only unavoidable area is the need for fresh air/zoom units.

 

[shack314]

bro, im still using dish soap and a toothbrush lmao

My go-to back in the day was Spray N Wash. Used to get the job done.

 

[-={ HittEmUp }=- Mack]

I bought these items to clean my suede/nubuck Jordans but I'm having some issues -

.....


I tried cleaning my wheat 13's and they ended up like this -

I almost feel like the suede in the light spots has been worn down and the nap isn't long enough now to "fluff" back up.. Any suggestions?
Thanks!

 

[T_p_Hill]

I bought these items to clean my suede/nubuck Jordans but I'm having some issues -

.....


I tried cleaning my wheat 13's and they ended up like this -

I almost feel like the suede in the light spots has been worn down and the nap isn't long enough now to "fluff" back up.. Any suggestions?
Thanks!

Great choice of products there.
Sound like me when you prefer a little nap to the suede and a couple recommendations for you to give a go:

1. Get one of those double sided suede brushes. One side should have the rubber while the other is similar to the brush you have above. Its nice to have the rubber block as it will come in use for certain steps but having the rubber teeth* adds a little something i cant quite put into words.

2. Grab some wheat suede dye. Suede is very durable however it does tend to drop color especially after deep cleaning sessions and such. Im a bid fan of deep rich colored suede/nubuck so it never hurts to inject a little dye every so often especially since nike tends to weak dye most current shoes. Multiple coats and allowing each to dry prior to applying another will get the suede looking extra luxurious.

3. Suede conditioner will keep things nice and soft to touch. Think of it like a leather conditioner and everyone loves butter soft leather.

4. Sandpaper specifically 600 - 1000 range works really well to pull up the nap. Overdo it and the nap will be extra long so watch a couple videos to get the just of how the process goes.

Just a couple quick pointers, feel free to reach out directly or post here for additional elaboration.

 

[-={ HittEmUp }=- Mack]

2. Grab some wheat suede dye.

Could you link me to a specific item? I have no clue which to get. I want to be as close to the original color as possible. Also, do you think the color after dying will be uniform even on the worn down spots will very little/short suede as in the pics above? Thanks!

 

[T_p_Hill]

Amazon product ASIN B003GC3IXA

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angelusdirect.com

Dye uniformity is easily achieved, getting it spot on to original however is another story yet thats really not a bad thing.
Reason being is because from what ive seen lately they really dont take time with the dying process so alot of times what we get is either too less or too much dye applied at once which then either flakes out over time or bleeds into surrounding areas. By taking our time applying one layer allowing it to dry and then applying another to even things out produces a better looking product all around. So really the key is just matching up the hue as best as possible preferably working lighter in color than dark as its easier to add to but harder to brighten something thats dark.
Linked both Saphir and Angelus dyes above, I prefer Saphir as the colors are really rich yet Angelus may work just as well.
Grab the Tan or Wheat closest to the shade of your shoes along with some thinner that way if say for instance youd like whatever brown you get to be lighter you can simply mix the two to your liking in order to dial in the desired hue closest to original.
Little mixing jars come in handy for the mixing part and application can be done with any basic paint brush. Firstly make sure to nap the suede to your liking using the sandpaper so that way you dont wind up having to touch up spots afterwards. The sandpaper may even lift up those areas referenced as worn down. Tend to stay away from spot treating in favor of all around applications for complete uniformity.

 

[-={ HittEmUp }=- Mack]

getting it spot on to original however is another story

Thanks for taking the time to help! I was looking at the dyes but I still don't know which color would be best.. Reviews on the Beige says its a pinkish tone.. I rly wish they sold a wheat colored dye.

 

[therealest1]

I need to get back on this thread after being inactive on it for several years now. I'm trying to get back into restoring some of my sneaks, specifically sole separation issues. At least I cleaned a couple of things so I can wear them again if I get a specific jersey to go with them.

I was shocked that a large bottle of Gorilla Glue inside of it hardened up when I tried to use it a few days ago! There was more than half capacity in it too. I got that bottle in like 2013 I believe. I did research and learned it will harden up inevitably. I didn't use it for so long honestly.

I don't think I'll be using Gorilla Glue for sole separation work anymore due to that inevitability of it hardening in the bottle. It doesn't make sense for me to get something that I'll have to discard eventually, especially since I like to save things for later usage.

Can y'all please recommend what adhesive should I use going forward? Like one that won't harden up in the container as long as it's sealed. Target has name brand stuff like Gorilla Glue, Loctite, E6000, and Shoe Goo, but should I avoid going to there for shoe restoration projects? Should I go to outlets that aren't common like big-box stores?

 

[-={ HittEmUp }=- Mack]

I was shocked that a large bottle of Gorilla Glue inside of it hardened up when I tried to use it a few days ago!

I got that bottle in like 2013

 

[T_p_Hill]

I need to get back on this thread after being inactive on it for several years now. I'm trying to get back into restoring some of my sneaks, specifically sole separation issues. At least I cleaned a couple of things so I can wear them again if I get a specific jersey to go with them.

I was shocked that a large bottle of Gorilla Glue inside of it hardened up when I tried to use it a few days ago! There was more than half capacity in it too. I got that bottle in like 2013 I believe. I did research and learned it will harden up inevitably. I didn't use it for so long honestly.

I don't think I'll be using Gorilla Glue for sole separation work anymore due to that inevitability of it hardening in the bottle. It doesn't make sense for me to get something that I'll have to discard eventually, especially since I like to save things for later usage.

Can y'all please recommend what adhesive should I use going forward? Like one that won't harden up in the container as long as it's sealed. Target has name brand stuff like Gorilla Glue, Loctite, E6000, and Shoe Goo, but should I avoid going to there for shoe restoration projects? Should I go to outlets that aren't common like big-box stores?

My stars.
Gorilla glue is an absolute no go as is Loctite on any article of clothing. All adhesives once opened have a shelf life of sorts so thatll be an on going thing that well likely need to reup on going along.
Best way going about it is to have a couple pairs to work through during a given stretch of time to use up the adhesive prior to any settling.
Bonus points for having the shoes stripped and preped throughly for adhesive application.
As for adhesive recommendations Barge SuperStik has been my current go to. It applies smoothly is clear and tacks rather well. A little goes a long way as well so no need being heavy on application.

 

[therealest1]

My stars.
Gorilla glue is an absolute no go as is Loctite on any article of clothing. All adhesives once opened have a shelf life of sorts so thatll be an on going thing that well likely need to reup on going along.
Best way going about it is to have a couple pairs to work through during a given stretch of time to use up the adhesive prior to any settling.
Bonus points for having the shoes stripped and preped throughly for adhesive application.
As for adhesive recommendations Barge SuperStik has been my current go to. It applies smoothly is clear and tacks rather well. A little goes a long way as well so no need being heavy on application.

I'm leaning toward getting a 1 quart canister of Barge Infinity Cement since most peeps use that to restore sole separation. Will that canister have a shelf life with it hardening up once opened? Or is it something that will last as long as it's sealed properly? I don't want to get a canister that will be useless with a lot left inside since I don't have a boatload of shoes to restore.

Or should I just get a smaller tube-sized application of Barge instead so I don't have to worry about it becoming useless since I'll obviously go through it faster if I only have a few pairs to restore?

 

[Girl Thats Jules]

I'm leaning toward getting a 1 quart canister of Barge Infinity Cement since most peeps use that to restore sole separation. Will that canister have a shelf life with it hardening up once opened? Or is it something that will last as long as it's sealed properly? I don't want to get a canister that will be useless with a lot left inside since I don't have a boatload of shoes to restore.

Or should I just get a smaller tube-sized application of Barge instead so I don't have to worry about it becoming useless since I'll obviously go through it faster if I only have a few pairs to restore?

Yes, Barge has a shelf life. I say after 2 months you'll notice the difference. This is if you open and close it quickly and correctly.

It can go bad overnight if you don't close it right.

 

[therealest1]

Yes, Barge has a shelf life. I say after 2 months you'll notice the difference. This is if you open and close it quickly and correctly.

It can go bad overnight if you don't close it right.

Wow, so you're saying it will begin becoming useless after 2 months even with prompt and correct opening and closing? I guess that means its lifespan starts ticking away once it's opened, right?

Now that's logical with it going bad, or even solidifying without closing it properly with all that air seeping in.

I think I'll go with that 1 quart green label Barge Infinity Cement because it's highly recommended. I also have more than 2 pairs of shoes I need to restore I believe. I don't think it will make sense for me to get one of those tube-sized Barge applications because it won't be enough to cover the pairs I need to restore, so I would have to constantly replenish them to complete my jobs. I guess I just have to get as many pairs done promptly with that 1 quart and live with the remaining content becoming useless if I can't find more pairs to restore.

 

[Girl Thats Jules]

Wow, so you're saying it will begin becoming useless after 2 months even with prompt and correct opening and closing? I guess that means its lifespan starts ticking away once it's opened, right?

Now that's logical with it going bad, or even solidifying without closing it properly with all that air seeping in.

I think I'll go with that 1 quart green label Barge Infinity Cement because it's highly recommended. I also have more than 2 pairs of shoes I need to restore I believe. I don't think it will make sense for me to get one of those tube-sized Barge applications because it won't be enough to cover the pairs I need to restore, so I would have to constantly replenish them to complete my jobs. I guess I just have to get as many pairs done promptly with that 1 quart and live with the remaining content becoming useless if I can't find more pairs to restore.

You'll still be able to use it after those few months.

I just meant you'll be able to tell the difference. It will be thicker and harder to apply. It won't be as liquidy as the day you opened it.

 

[therealest1]

You'll still be able to use it after those few months.

I just meant you'll be able to tell the difference. It will be thicker and harder to apply. It won't be as liquidy as the day you opened it.

Thanks for educating me about that Barge stuff because I have absolutely no experience with it despite reading about it a lot over the years. That makes sense that it won't be as fluid since it's already been opened for a few months.

No more Gorilla Glue and Gorilla Tape for me. I actually used those so many years ago. The 2004 Jordan XII white/sky blue & 2004 Olympic VII came out good for me using those materials for their sole separations.

But I ended up learning about other stuff over time after I restored those. It seems like you have to go to an outlet that's not a big-box store to get somewhat more outstanding materials that aren't stocked everywhere like Barge cement.

 

[jordanfreak23]

I was able to clean up my BC3. I first used a damp cloth to wipe the area and then finished with angelus mink oil.
Here’s the video for more information:

Just pulled same pair out of mu closet and was floored when I saw the condition. DS with bloom. Thanks for the video and the info y'all. I feel a lot better now. I gotta start wearing my shoes man...

 

[Girl Thats Jules]

Question about Air Jordan 7 Hare 2015:

Is it possible to remove black stains from MOLD on the suede?

And there is a lot, it's on the suede panels.

 

[NowForeverAlways]

Anyone know how to get this off? Im not sure what it is and have tried dish soap and jason mark. Thanks

 

[Girl Thats Jules]

Anyone know how to get this off? Im not sure what it is and have tried dish soap and jason mark. Thanks

Try a mr clean magic eraser or any off brand.

But, DO NOT let that magic eraser touch the blue suede part, it will destroy it.

1. You're going to have to get a good grip of the shoe and the eraser at whatever the correct angle is.

2. Wet the eraser and scrub with a little firmness over the stain. If that doesn't work. Try to rub back and forth over the stain with the eraser as hard as you can.

3. It should come out.

 

[888henry]

Is there a way to remove the yellowing from the clear weave/knit on these Goretex AF1 Highs? I've cleaned the shoes multiple times with Jason Mark and it had no effect.

 

[-={ HittEmUp }=- Mack]

I just got my Raging Bull 5's from GOAT today and I am SOOOOO disappointed in the shade of red. It's so faded it looks like trash.. VERY similiar to the last red suede 5's they released ( HORRIBLE ).. I have already started a return but I was wondering if anyone has re dyed these and made them better? The few posts/vids online I can find don't show the detail of how it looks afterwards because of poor lighting which is prolly to make it look better than it actually is.. I would dye these instead of returning them if I knew the end result would be worth it. I don't want to be out $267.00 when I can just return them for a credit ( minus shipping ) . Someone please let me know about your experience/thoughts on dying the new Jordan 5 Raging Bulls .

UPDATE: nevermind

 

[-={ HittEmUp }=- Mack]

Question about Air Jordan 7 Hare 2015:

Is it possible to remove black stains from MOLD on the suede?

And there is a lot, it's on the suede panels.

I would take them to a dry cleaners and ask them. Maybe they can clean them.

 

[odiggidy]

Question for the fam. Are 2011 True Blues still wearable? Thinking of copping a VNDS pr. Thanks in advance.

 

[Girl Thats Jules]

Question for the fam. Are 2011 True Blues still wearable? Thinking of copping a VNDS pr. Thanks in advance.

Mine are, I un-DSed them back then and they still are. I've probably wore them less than 10 times though.

 

[feelingood]

Question for the fam. Are 2011 True Blues still wearable? Thinking of copping a VNDS pr. Thanks in advance.

Depends. If DS.. probably not. But I got two NDS 3s from 2011 that held up well. Gotta watch out for the plastic tabs and midsoles. One cracks and the other crumbles.