Official Photography Thread: Vol. ICan'tFindTheLastOne

i'm bored, here are some pictures from my flicker account.
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a sciolistic point of view...
 
color slides? really? that's gotta be photoshop, right? if thats real that's gotta be the crappest dirtest camera ever, but props... if thats photoshop, you're certainly good at photoshop to say the least...
 
You guys are unreal with these photos you all take.
AirJordans4life...Your kids are to cute man...your daughter is beautiful. Props on your pics.

I'm very new to this...I've had my camera for less than a week. Went to the local park today and just snapped a few pics. Any help would be appreciated.
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TEAM KENTUCKY
WHERE TIPPIN COWS REQUIRES HEAT ON YOUR FEET
 
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:lol
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Feminine like sandals.

Wanted: '98 Chocolate AF1 Mids, AM 95 "Mita," Air Force 180 "Union," Air Jordan VII "Raptors," SBs, AM 90s, AM 1s, Dunks, or Jordans you have in a size 6-7. Maybe.​
 
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you saying its a crappy, dirty camera excites me because that's sort of the thing im going for. it's a technique called "through the viewfinder" where you shoot(in macro) through the viewfinder of an old camera, such as a Kodak Duaflex II (which is what i use). All i do after i upload is crop and straighten them in iphoto, maybe increase saturation, since outdoor pictures tend to look washed out. I did however use PS on the one of the kitchen with the greenish tint. anyway, here the flickr pool if you want to look at more examples


I've said this more than once but I firmly believe the camera doesnt make the man. You can take great photographes with any camera just a matter of how you go about it. But let me get this straight you're shooting digital thru the viewfinder of a TLR? that's wild if so... I've never heard of doing that. I at first thought they had to be slides because of the saturation of color. But thats definately an interesting effect. Never would have thought it was that...

But is there a particular reason you don't just buy slide film and shoot it with the TLR to begin with? I guess it adds a step in getting the film developed and scanning the film but still you could still get that aesthetic but a far more refined quality... Either way though thats interesting...
 
@ Matte Paintwww.flickr.com/groups/thr...iewfinder/
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I went to the US Botanic and took a few flower macros (which I know are boring and typical but thats most of the pics Ive taken so far)... but its for practice and to learn the settings on the camera. I will share more often probably now that I have this camera.
 
I've been looking at this TTV technique and its really wild. I've never heard of anyone doing it. I understand the aesthetic completely I mean shoot exclusively square format. And I use to actually use a TLR, a yashicamat with 120 film. But really why don't these people just use the actual TLR camera's with slide film? I you'd get the same like saturation of color, far better contrast range. Because while you can simulate film with digital. Digital will never rival film for contrast range, just a plain and simple fact. I mean part of me likes this idea, that it's sort of this personally set limitation by the device and its effective use kind of like people who use Polaroid camera's but different idea, but another part of me feels like its raping film cameras for some aesthetic value and antiquated style that doesnt exist with purely digital... Like with some of those TLR's they shoot like 620 and I've only seen 620 film in few places and it was ridiculously expensive but 220, 120, and even 70mm are reasonably wildly availble films in both color and b/w and slide and negative and even daylight and tungsten balanced film. But end of the day more power to you and I'm glad you showed it atleast, it's definately something different for sure...
 
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it uses 127 film, i think. is it that film easy to get?


No, as far as medium format the only really widely available film is 120 and 220. I've seen 620 but it was past the experation and $12 a roll. 70mm I've also seen but it was real expensive (don't remember the exact cost). All the rest of the other random sizes I'm sure are virtually if not really impossible to get these days....

But you should be able to get a functioning TLR for maybe at the least $50 and for one with a built in light meter (if it didnt have one built in you'd need to buy one) for maybe $120 or more... Like Yashica or Rolleiflex are the best and TLR which is the best/cheapest way to shoot medium format because Holgas and Dianas are horrid like just plain not good cameras. But like the pump fake TLRs like Seagulls or Kodaks aren't really that great as far as lens quality.

Also do you focus the TLR's lens because wouldn't you be changing the focal distance and totally distorting the focus or no?
 
Hey guys please help...I have a Nikon d40x I bought a week and half ago. I'm going to a concert tomorrow night and I wanna take some pics. It's not anarena or anything that big. It's just a music hall. He is an independent artist just to give you an idea that the place is not huge but its also not a holein the wall bar either. Any certain settings you guys think would work the best? I'm still trying to figure the camera out so any help would be greatlyappreciated. Thanks.
 
SPOOSMAN i would just open up the lens i.e. just use lower f-stops. Since you're going to be handholding the camera and I assume themusician is going to be moving atleast somewhat I would stay with a shutter speed of 1/125 or faster. If need be raise the iso but that should a last resort.Also if you have an external flash you could probably bounce the flash off the ceiling and get some nice shots but if its just the on camera flash I wouldstill use it but it's not going to be as effective as an external one...

CzdaDegrees that picture is nice. something odd about it I can't quite put my finger on, but still nice nonetheless...
 
what up y'all...I just got into photography, like last week lol...my boy's dad gave me a Minolta Maxxum 50 to use for now...here are some of thepictures that I took, mind you I didn't know ANYTHING about shutter speed, f stops, or anything at the time, but have been reading up on somestuff...ebayologist, whoever else, PLEASE give me tips and stuff, much appreciated. btw the film I used was ISO 800 I believe, black and white.

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all feedback appreciated...criticize it as much as possible, constructively though, of course
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don't just say it sucks. thanks!
 
The Black James Bond First thing I would say is nice for out the gate first try thats nice stuff. But just in general I would use lower isofilm for everthing you have other than probably the night outdoor shots. Also I would meter for the shadows, I take your scanning the film there might beissues there too but your contrast range is kind of harsh you don't have a lot of shadow detail, which maybe in part to the high iso aswell but nonethelessyou should have more shadow detail than what you do. Also they're all pretty much too dark... You also have focus issues I would just learn how to manualfocus if you aren't just from the camera I and vague idea of what it might be I'm guess its an AF zoom lens I would definately manual some of the shotsaren't really sharp and focus right and that adds to the exposure issues. Also you don't play with depth of focus, don't go overboard with it butif you control it use it when the situation suits it I think there are any number of those photos that could be helped by playing with depth of focus. Alsothat date thing showing up is brutality..

1. I don't think you need a flash and if you feel you do I would bounce it. The contrast range (which is highly important in b/w) is super ehh... mostly asa result of the flash. Also it's cropped too tight on the subject or not tight enough. you can't ride the fence of close up or bust portrait...

2. Your anchor is too tight on the right, feels cut off instead of anchored with that pillar or wall or whatever that is... Also you have no shadow detailwhich may be any number of things from hosting to scaning, to shooting, my immediate guess is shooting that you didn't meter the light for the shadow...

3. Awkward framing on right and bottom, also samething about shadow detail...

4. Strangely composed you get the sign but cutoff the door... the angle is very awkward.

5. You can't use a flash on that shot or as one lacking power or dispersion of that one. it fills the foreground alittle harshly and then is not existentin the middle or background. Also feels strange on the composition like too tight and the contrast is really harsh for a picture like that.

6. Compositional suffers from the same problems as 5. You try to get angles and perspective by simple changing the angle of the camera up or down sometimes youphysically have to move up or down.

7. Way too dark. most if not all of them are on the dark side of things but 7 is a bit much with the value/constrast. Also same composition/perspective issuesof 5 and 6.

8. Cropped way too tight sorta like 5-7 but much worse, the sign means little without referential information I mean what are we suppose to take from just astreet sign (I mean I know broad st. is big street in Philly but still) give us the street and focus on the sign...

9. Probably the best of the bunch... To dark but far and away the best composition. It's not perfect, but its alright... alittle loose maybe and too darksay a whole lot more...

10. Suffers from same composition issues as 5-7 and contrast issues that I can quite figure out, ever thing is just harsh...

11. Its the best exposure far and away still a lack of shadow detail. And I'm not sold on the composition but its not particularly bad...

B/W film isn't hard it just takes getting use to. Once you get it it's easy. I would shoot like Kodak Tri-X 320 or 400 iso. unless you shoot at nightthen maybe the 800 but your biggest problem is the contrast being to harsh and dark and a lack of shadow detail
 
sounds good for 10 mp, but still look at the features list and make sure that lines up with your needs and wants.
 
been doing a lot of research about dSLRs and I'm getting really close to buying one...
if anyone can help that would be greatly appreciated...
 
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