Official CAR AUDIO Thread FAQ added

couldnt you dynamat the upper and bottom shelf though? i saw some nice RE 8inch subs for 60-80... i dont know what the difference between the re8 and the rex8 though
 
just wanting a little more thump while keeping everything looking stock.... from the head unit to the back sub
 
new fi btls
Here are a couple of pics of the N1 motor. Little odd looking compared to most designs, but form followed function. This is rather close to final version, except that material for top and bottom plates is a little thicker (for future profiling) and I wasn't paying enough attention when I wrote the code and wrapped the chamfer all the way around when it doesn't need to be where the spacers/end caps mate.


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This is the standard replacement for the Gen1 and Gen2 BTLs. It has similar power handling and options. The heatsink/inductance ring which was an option on the Gen2 is now integral to the design. We spent quite a bit of time testing the sinking and cooling to ensure that the Neo magnets used would not suffer degradation due to heatsoak (a problem which plagues other designs). Form followed function with the motor and is why these new versions are a fairly radical departure from the last designs.
Weight loss is significant compared to the 11.25" diameter magnets used in the Gen2 motors.

More info to come both on the site and here. We are trying to get pics for the N1 and N2 drivers up on the site over the weekend to start selling on Monday morning. There will be an initial approx 4 week lead time for the N1 and N2 subs due to some raw materials not arriving for another 3 weeks. But if these sell even remotely close to the Gen2 BTLs we expect a healthy list of early adopters.


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Keeping true to form at Fi we have an industrial application that uses these 4.500" NdFeB "pads" and felt that the trickle down to car audio might be in order for them.
The first iteration uses 3 of them and simply has more Gauss than the 3" pole can handle.
Coil has a very healthy inductance/heat ring with external fins for cooling and keeps the heat out of the magnets (which seems to be a problem with some other car audio designs).
In playing with this proto it is definitely geared towards SPL, given the motor force.

Let us know what you think. Im hoping its not too out of the ordinary to be marketable... as it truly performs.



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N1 - SQ oriented
N2 - Daily pounder
N3 - Straight SPL
 
So, just copped my new whip bout a week ago and really want to put a nice little system in there.

I just don't know how to start off or what to put in there, any suggestions or whatever - would be highly appreciated.

Price Range: $2500-3000 (no more than that)
Car: 2010 Black Honda Accord Coupe

#HALP
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First thing you do, is hit these guys up. https://www.dcpowerinc.com/ and http://mechman.com/

Get a quote for a 200-250 amp alternator. After that measure under your hood since you'll need a new battery. Get the biggest one that'll fit(pause 
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) http://mechman.com/store/index.php/cPath/1

Pick up one for under and hood and a matching one for out back. Most stock electrical systems will only handle up to 800-1000w. Anything over that and you'll need hefty electrical upgrades.

Next up is the big 3. This explains it

Get your wiring from http://www.knukonceptz.co...Detail.cfm?prodID=KFX0BL and terminals from http://www.woofersetc.com...Style-Ring-Terminals.htm

Alt to pos has to be fused so http://www.knukonceptz.co...tDetail.cfm?prodID=FH-20 get the 300a one

This is something you can do yourself.

Last but not least is sound deadening. Best bang for buck is rammatt http://www.raamaudio.com/...mp;vmcchk=1&Itemid=3

Pick up 1 roll of that and 2 packs of these http://www.raamaudio.com/..._virtuemart&Itemid=3

Set a weekend aside to do this yourself. You have enough there for the doors, rear deck, and majority of the trunk area. There's PLENTY of tutorials online.

The ensolite goes on the doors ontop of the deadening.

Once you get that done, I'll start putting products together but i already figure quad 8's, efficient mids, and horns
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ok, done putting a setup together for nter Nktran001

Dash is weird and it's hard to fit a headunit, so we'll be utilizing the stock one.


Rockford 3sixty.2 will be used for processing. $330 http://www.buy.com/prod/r...9/loc/111/206722151.html

Front Stage

Image Dynamics xs65 mids  $329 http://www.woofersetc.com...-Nomex-Rohacell-cone.htm

B&C De500 compression horns $334 http://www.parts-express....l.cfm?Partnumber=294-608

These horns have a sensitivity of 107db @ 1w. They'll tear your head off with just 5 watts.

Horn that attaches to the compression driver $182 http://www.woofersetc.com...ics-V2-Fullsize-Horn.htm

Amps

2 Crescendo audio 1000c4's $460 http://www.crescendoaudio...duct.php?productid=17516

Both amps will provide 250 to each mid and each horn

1000w on tap for front stage
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Sundown 1500d $350 http://www.db-r.com/sell/...9_81&products_id=204

1500 this will provide 1500 for a sealed 15" ssa xcon

Total wattage 3500

Sub

SSA XCON $389 http://www.soundsolutions...A-XCON-D1%7B47%7DD2.html

Box will be 3 cubes sealed.

Total $2285
 
I have a question for any of you who have a subwoofer in your trunk. About a month ago, I had a foul stench coming from the trunk of my car. I cleaned everything out, sprayed everything down, and let it air out. I used Febreze, and Lysol, in case of mold or anything of that sort. Well, it lightly smells again and this time I used baking soda and Arm and Hammer and put it all over my trunk. It covers up the smell a little better, but what still happens is my trunk has become very moist. It's kind of gross.
I'm thinking it's the build up with all the chemicals in my trunk, plus the energy/warm power being pushed from the sub, and there's a condensed feeling in my trunk. It feels disgusting, and I'm wondering could it be because of the subwoofer? I also carry water bottles in my trunk, they are unopened, but when I see them, they are condensating. My spare sneakers I keep in my trunk appear to be a bit moist on the outside leather as well. It is sick
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Any ideas, or is this subwoofer related at all?
 
I'm going from a Kenwood stereo to a Pioneer. Can I still use the same wiring harness and stereo instillation kit or do I need to buy another one.
 
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