F1 Official Thread - Grand Prix of Britain

Raw footage.

Bear in mind, some of these cars aren't at full-power, full-revs or full-throttle.  
 
Not a fan of the engine noise.

That Ferrari nose looks better after the crash.
 
http://www.f1times.co.uk/news/display/08533
A shake-up to the qualifying format has been given the go-ahead by all 11 teams on the grid, meaning it must now be approved by the FIA World Motor Sport Council.
That's likely to be a formality and therefore it's almost guaranteed to be in place before the Australian Grand Prix in under 20 days time.

During a meeting in Bahrain last week, the teams convened to discuss how to stop drivers sitting out Q3 in order to save tyres. A number of changes were put forward, but it's believed they've now unanimously decided upon a couple of tweaks.

Q1 will now last 18 minutes, two less than previously, whilst Q2 will remain at 15 minutes and the final top-ten shootout, Q3, will be extended by two minutes to 12 in total.

The 16 cars which make it though to Q2 will receive an extra set of option (softer) tyres, but these tyres can only be used during Q3 - so those who don't progress will get to keep them for the race, but those who do make it into the top-ten shoot-out must use the additional options to set their final time, but must then hand them back to Pirelli after.

Those in Q3 will then start the race on the tyre in which they set their fastest lap on in Q2.

This ensures that all the cars in Q3 are competing on the same tyre, without the incentive to stay in the garage, but the strategic element of starting on the prime (harder) option remains a possibility if they choose to use that tyre in Q2.

It also gives those starting outside the top-ten an additional set of new tyres. Those in Q2 get to keep the additional set which Q3 runners had to hand back, whilst the bottom six cars will have used less tyres in the first place.

The change is likely to be confirmed ahead of the next pre-season test in Bahrain next week.
 
Seems like a good rule change. Hopefully it shakes up the order during the race. :smokin
 
Man... finishes like these make me miss racing. Only a couple of weekends to go! :hat

 
Williams. 
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EDIT ~

Fascinating stats.

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Hopefully Williams gets back into competitive form this season.

I think the Mercs are still the team to beat this season. Ferrari will be there... McLaren might have something up their sleeves. Red Bull looks like bull doo doo at the moment. :x :smokin
 
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Williams look VERY good.  This season's Brawn perhaps?  Merc are the team to beat, but Williams is right up there.  

I dunno... McLaren have looked decent, but seems a bit further off from the top than I'd like.  I dunno.  

We should enjoy this RBR "dip" while it lasts... you just know they're gonna come roaring back.  
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I agree... quite a disappointment; I liked the fan renderings more. They definitely could've done better.

Peep the new "Senna" logo commemorating the 20th anniversary of Ayrton's passing:
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Cool time-lapse vid of the Albert Park Circuit set up.
 
@zk1MPLS

I need your expertise.  I just bought this... and cuz of the tobacco laws, the Marboro-branding came separately.  

Got any tips on applying decals?  I've never done this before, so I'm nervous! LOL  I think I have to tailor-cut the decals too! 

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^those are waterslide decals, there's many in depth tutorials on youtube that can teach you better that I can tell you

^ what the man said... lots of tutorials on YouTube. You'd need a decal setting solution, some tweezers, and a light touch at the very least. Good luck with that. :x
 
^those are waterslide decals, there's many in depth tutorials on youtube that can teach you better that I can tell you

^ what the man said... lots of tutorials on YouTube. You'd need a decal setting solution, some tweezers, and a light touch at the very least. Good luck with that. :x
I like waterslides as they adhere well to the curved surfaces and panel lines of Gunpla. 8)
 
Yeah... now I need to look for that Micro Sol solution.  Not sure if they have that here.  Will need to look around.

And a good recap for the new 2014 changes... 
http://www.formula1.com/news/features/2014/3/15539.html

If you don't see some Micro Sol up there in HK, you might want to look for Mr. Hobby's Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softer
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Works just as well. Pretty difficult to find a bottle over here (especially the Mr. Mark Softer), but I luckilly found a bottle.
 
^ Thanks... just what I was wondering.  I haven't found the MicroSol yet, so I might need to look for this instead.  A lot more Tamiya and Gunze Sangyo products here.  

The thing is, I'll just be using it for a few small decals.  Might be wasting a whole bottle.  And the Softer solution won't damage the paint on the model?  
 
^ Thanks... just what I was wondering.  I haven't found the MicroSol yet, so I might need to look for this instead.  A lot more Tamiya and Gunze Sangyo products here.  

The thing is, I'll just be using it for a few small decals.  Might be wasting a whole bottle.  And the Softer solution won't damage the paint on the model?  

I'm not quite sure about it affecting the paint (I'm tempted to say, that it probably won't); depends on what paint the model used. Use it sparingly, or at the very least, test it out first on a piece away from view.

Googled this (might be of help): http://goodguydangunpla.blogspot.com/2012/12/tutorial-how-to-apply-water-slide-decals.html

I'm not really sure what Mr. Mark Softer is, but it's smell reminds me of the stuff I had to put on a planters wart when I was a kid.So I'm guessing it's a really weak type of acid. Mark Softer 'melts' the decal to the part and helps to hide the borders. The overall effect is that the decal looks 'painted' onto the kit.

Word of warning, if you leave the Mark Softer on too long it will effect the underlying paint. If you decal moves while applying the Mark Softer, you have about 5 seconds to readjust it before the decal will start to fall apart while moving it.

To apply the mark softer just lightly brush the solution over the decal. After a few seconds remove any excess that pools up on the paint. After this step don't touch the part for a while; I typically let them sit over night to cure 100% before I touch anything!
 
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