The GQ Guide to Dressing for Less
Dressing well doesn't have to mean spending a fortune. It's about combining old-school know-how (Yeah, you better have a skilled tailor) with the realization that there are now more affordable style-centric stores than ever. Here's where—and how—to shop, the items you should always buy for less, and the 25 rules that will make you a better-dressed, more cost-conscious man
1. Taste is more important than money.
2. That's not to say you shouldn't invest in your clothes.
But men with real style know when to splurge—and where to save.
3. Start at the best of the low-cost, high-style stores.
Big-name shops like H&M, J.Crew, and Uniqlo have never been so packed with legitimately cool stuff for men. But remember: Wear these labels your way; it's all about how you mix, match, and style the clothes. Joshua Kissi and Travis Gumbs, the maestros behind the real-guy style blog Street Etiquette, are better than anyone at giving affordable brands an injection of personality. Here, they break down their accessible—but never predictable—looks.
Joshua Kissi (left)
Coat
"Got it off eBay for $100. The $495 J.Crew price tag was still on it. It's one of the gems of my closet—I'll have it for life."
Shirt
"I paid $29.50 for it at Uniqlo."
Tie
"It's Tommy Hilfiger. I got it at a thrift store for $3."
Bracelets
"Wooden bracelets are one of our trademarks. I don't wear watches, and this is something different that feels manly."
Belt
"This Tanner Goods belt started out a totally different color. I've been breaking it in. It was $65."
Jeans
"White jeans really pop. These are $50 at Topman, but I used to work there, so I paid $25."
Travis Gumbs (right)
Coat
"This was on sale at the Gap for $20 or something ridiculous."
Shirt
"I like the small collar on this shirt. It was the Uniqlo collab with Opening Ceremony, on sale for $10!"
Tie
"This look is so muted that I wanted a busy tie, so I went for this plaid one I got for $6 on Topman.com."
Pants
"These were 70 percent off at Nom de Guerre. Think it came out to $70 or so. I like Nom de Guerre because everything is very minimal."
Shoes
"The shoes are Fred Perry by Raf Simons and, like, the perfect cross between a loafer, a moc, and a sneaker."
What Each of the Big Brands Does Best
Uniqlo
Slim-cut cotton suits and jackets; cashmere and merino wool sweaters in every imaginable color.
J.Crew
Plaid, chambray, and denim shirts. (Think weekend, not work.) Preppy American suits, updated for the cool guy.
H&M
Tapered dress shirts and smart suits for the office.
Topman
For the young and trendy at heart, with a constantly replenished stock.
On Model: Hat, $25, by Gap. Jacket, $35, by H&M. Plaid Shirt, $30, by Uniqlo. T-shirt, $24, by Topman. Jeans, $60, by DKNY Jeans. Sneakers, $42, by Vans. Watch, $95, by Kenneth Cole New York.
4. Beware the sample sale.
Yeah, these fashion-showroom free-for-alls are a great place to spy pretty women half undressed. But if you buy some high-fashion leftover at 70 percent off and you never end up wearing it, you're not actually saving money. You're wasting it.
5. Speaking of sales, learn to navigate the outlet mall.
If you follow the money, it's clear that more shoppers than ever have become hip to the factory-outlet mall. At the end of 2009, U.S. outlet sales totaled $20 billion. To figure out how to snap up the killer deals, GQ's senior fashion editor, Lisa Cohen, and I drove to Woodbury Common in upstate New York and raided Bottega Veneta, Gucci, John Varvatos, and Lacoste. At Calvin Klein, we found walls of serviceable jackets and pants; you could pick any combo for $388. That's fine if you need a suit on the cheap, but it's not the same as scoring a deal on the black-label stuff that they show on the runway. We had better luck at Ralph Lauren, where we turned up a selection of marked-down Purple Label. That's the stuff that goes for sky-high prices back on Madison Avenue. Here's how to navigate this tricky terrain.—Jason Chen
Focus on accessories
They always fit, and you're more likely to find the color you want. We saw black Prada card holders for $95, down from $165, and repp ties at Ralph Lauren for $40 (originally $150).
Don't rule out a splurge
We found a killer Balenciaga trench coat for $789—very reasonable for a trench, and way down from $1,975.
Check the label
Just because it has a fancy designer's name on it doesn't make it a good deal. Many high-end labels now have low-cost diffusion lines meant for department stores: Ralph Lauren's Chaps and a Calvin Klein white label confusingly called Calvin Klein, for instance. You didn't drive an hour to the outlet to buy that stuff;—you're after deep discounts on the premium lines.
Put stuff on hold
If you're on the fence about something, put it on hold and walk away. You can always double back.
6. Sometimes improving your look doesn't require buying anything new at all. It's about taking care of what's already in your closet.
You wouldn't toss your Little League baseball glove in the trash can just because the laces have come loose. Of course not. When a man finds something in life that he loves, he stands by it. The same goes for your clothes. My gramma taught me that. When I was in college, my favorite sweater had frayed at the elbows. "Take that off," she said, scowling. As I ate lunch, she darned the holes in the sleeve. I still own the sweater; the elbows that she rewove are now rich with character. That's the other thing that happens when you maintain your clothes: Those touches get accentuated, and then, well, that's where personal style emerges. But don't take my word for it. A while ago, I was out to dinner with my pal Hooman Majd (left)—the man Style Guy Glenn O'Brien cites as the best-dressed man in the world—and I was admiring his Hermès sports jacket, complete with suede elbow patches. He told me it was twenty-odd years old and that he'd added the patches recently, when the fabric started to give way. Hard to think you could improve an Hermès jacket, but Hooman had—and he saved $5,000 by not buying a new one. Not only does the jacket live on, but the patches—born of necessity—give it that quality that is at the root of style: individuality.—MICHAEL HAINEY
Three Great Mail-In Repair Shops
1. Tiecrafters: For impeccably cleaned ties. They also narrow ties for $17.
www.tiecrafters.com
2. Best Weaving and Mending, Inc.: Specializes in reweaving suits and sweaters.
www.bestweavingandmending.com
3. Worth & Worth: Blocks and repairs hats.
www.hatshop.com
7. Buy vintage without losing your shirt.
1. No matter how cool and cheap that leather jacket might be, if it's too big, don't buy it.
2. Certain brands increase in value as they age: Classic-era Levi's, Vuarnet, old-school Nike, supply-store-era Abercrombie & Fitch, and The North Face.
3. Unless you play in Big Bad Voodoo Daddy (and like wearing your trousers up by your belly button), think twice about those cool sharkskin suits from the '50s and '60s.
4. If it looks too stained to wear off the rack, don't buy it. Rather than making that splotch of Ragú sauce from 1978 disappear, dry cleaning usually destroys the garment at the point of the stain.
5. Leather boots, flannels, and dress shirts with monogrammed initials (that aren't yours) are all excellent candidates for vintage. Western-style shirts, however, should be left behind. They're always cut long, to be tucked in. But these days, the only guys who tuck in western shirts are professional bull riders.
8. Shopping online can be a time- suck. Know where the deals are.
Start by signing up for GiltMan.com. GQ creative director Jim Moore—a man who's scored a Rag & Bone golf jacket for $142 (originally $495) and a Vince down vest for $56 (originally $165)— explains how to master the site.
1. "Each weekday at noon, GiltMan.com rolls out brand-new merchandise from labels like Rag & Bone, Alexander Olch, and Unis. The catch? Everything you put in your shopping cart only stays there for ten minutes. Meaning noon to 12:10 p.m. on GiltMan.com has become the dirtiest, most low-down free-for-all the Internet has seen since Ticketmaster."
2. "Sign up for the daily e-mails, not the weekly ones. They arrive at 11:57 a.m. and will give clues to what's becoming available."
3. "Right at noon, log in and spend five minutes quickly scrolling through the new stock. If there's anything that stands out—anything you'd even consider buying—add it to your cart before it disappears."
4. "Now it's 12:05, and you've got a shopping cart full of maybes. Spend the last five minutes deciding which items, if any, you absolutely have to have. Then pull the trigger before time runs out."
9. Online or off, know what you're shopping for in advance.
That way, you only spend money on what you actually need.
10. There's a whole year of savings out there. Learn when to take advantage.
The difference between paying full price and half-off all depends on when you walk into a store. You could be talking about a nationwide chain like Saks or a cool-kid emporium like Ron Herman in L.A. Hit sales right when they start and you can snag the best gear before it's off the shelves.
11. Find yourself a great tailor.
No one will help you get more value out of the clothes you just bought—or already own. To find the best one in your town, get recommendations. Call the fancy department store and ask whom they use, or—better yet—ask a couple of guys whose style you admire. And once you find the right tailor, learn to manage him. Don't let him tell you how much of a break you want in your trousers. You're the boss.
12. How do you make a $200 suit look like $1,000? You use that tailor.
1. You don't want baggy sleeves. Have them narrowed. ($1
2. Take up the sleeves slightly so they hit right at the break of your wrist. ($25)
3. The jacket's too boxy if the sides hang straight down from your shoulders. Take it in at the torso so it hugs you closely. ($25)
4. You want a narrow leg that falls straight down to your shoes. Take in the leg so there's no extra material, and shorten the pants so there's no break. That means the hem just barely touches the tops of your shoes. ($25)
Three Stores with Great $200 Suits
1. Topman
2. Uniqlo
3. H&M
On Model: Wool-blend suit, $200, shirt, $60, by Topman. Tie, $60, by Martin + Osa. Pocket square, $10, by Lands' End Canvas. Shoes, $35, by Merona at Target.
13. Hold on to the family fortune.
Believe it or not, my hometown, Atlanta, still has debutante societies. I was about to leave for a ball ten years ago when my dad gave me a pair of sterling cuff links with a W engraved on them. He unceremoniously dropped them into my hand, told me they'd been his father's, and walked away. It lasted about eleven seconds, total; he might as well have been telling me to wear a condom or not to drive drunk. Same deal when he gave me the gold Omega watch that was, to me, as much a physical part of his arm as his elbow was. Ditto his collection of skinny ties from the '60s, the beat-to-hell leather bag he took on his first trip to Europe (see left), and a gold Ti≠any tie bar. Here, son. Don't lose it. My habit of wearing Dad's hand-me-downs means I've already got the classic gear that designers like Michael Bastian are now feverishly imitating. It's also a habit so firmly ingrained that after my maternal grandfather passed away, I took a look in his closet. There were two suits: a three-piece in gray flannel and a two-piece in plaid wool. I was worried what my mom's sisters would think of me raiding Grandpa's wardrobe like that, but my mom eventually called to say my aunts were touched. One might've cried. Maybe not. That's another thing I got from Dad: I'm trying not to be sentimental about this stuff.—Will Welch
14. Summer's on the way. Don't buy shorts, make 'em.
A. Choose a pair of old khakis or fine-wale cords to sacrifice.
B. Put them on and use a pencil to mark an inch below each knee (for starters).
C. Take the pants off and lay them on the floor, making sure all the seams and hems are neatly aligned.
D. Cut each leg just above the pencil marking.
E. Repeat until the legs are even and you like the length. (Remember, you can always cut them a little shorter, but you can never make them any longer.)
F. Put on some canvas sneakers and go outside.
15. Wearing high-end labels head to toe doesn't make you stylish.
It makes you a mannequin.
16. Be your own barber.
The guy behind the chair at your local barbershop might not want to hear this, but cutting hair isn't that hard. Well, some hairstyles. Like the closely cropped kind. You know, think Brett Favre or, say, Tom Ford (left). The famously fastidious, controlling, luxury-obsessed fashion designer has been trimming his own for fifteen years. "Two things I can't stand," he says. "Standing there and getting my suits tailored, and sitting still and having someone cut my hair." Ford doesn't use scissors; he relies on a pair of Wahl electric clippers he bought at the drugstore. Not that we're calling Tom an idiot, but the clippers are idiotproof. Thanks to attachable plastic guards, lengths are standardized and nicks aren't an issue. Ford uses an 8 on top, 7 on the sides, and while holding a mirror in his free hand, a 6 on the back. We might suggest asking your girlfriend to handle the neckline. That is, of course, if you trust her.—Adam Rapoport
17. And while we're talking grooming, don't be too fancy for the drugstore.
Let's be clear: You should spend a few extra ducats on things like medicated post-shave balm and body lotion that smells so good you want to bathe in it. But don't be the guy who never sets foot in the CVS. Here are three grooming products that any sensible man buys at the drugstore.
Burt's Bees Beeswax Lip Balm
Naturally—and noticeably—better than that grimy stick in your pocket. Tingly, too. (It's got peppermint.)
www.burtsbees.com, $3
Cetaphil Daily Facial Cleanser
Tired of stuff that leaves your face tight and dry? Your dermatologist uses this for a reason.
www.cetaphil.com, $8
Dr. Bronner's Peppermint Liquid Soap
For once, the hippies get it right: the all-in-one cleaner for your body, your hair—hell, everything.
www.drbronner.com, $6
18. Don't get eaten alive.
Defend yourself against an attack from wool-eating moths, which, trust us, can devastate your wardrobe. Buy Cedar Fresh cedar chips. It may be the best $4 you ever spend.
19. Wear the hell out of these slim-cut khakis this spring.
Most khakis this affordable look like something a middle-aged PGA golfer pads around the course in. These rock.
On Model: T-shirt, $19, American Apparel. Khakis, $50, by Gap. Boat Shoes, $75, by Sperry Top-Sider.
21. Ebay's good for more than just used guitars and coffee tables.
Ryan McKenna—an eBay enthusiast who's scored many things, including this Barbour coat for just $150—breaks it down.
1. Don't fear Big-ticket items
"I've bought everything from an L.L.Bean anorak for $35 to an old Omega Seamaster watch for $950."
2. Be specific…
"I knew I wanted a Barbour Beaufort in size 40; eBay is too vast to just browse." …and patient "There's an infinite supply. I lost two or three Barbour auctions before I won this one. If you lose on something, just hit the 'View Similar Items' button."
3. Use a high-speed terminal
"You need to be at a computer with a fast Internet connection for the last twenty minutes of the auction."
4. Know your limit
"In the final minutes, there's a time ticker and a button that lets you raise the highest bidder by the lowest available increment. Click it until you win, lose, or get priced out."
23. Splurge on quality dress shoes.
Take care of them and they'll last a lifetime.
24. Mix the high with the low.
If I've learned one thing over the years at GQ, it's this: Quality endures. But too many guys think quality = expensive. Not true. You need to start thinking of your clothes as investments you will have for your whole life—not just an of-the-moment "new outfit" you buy for a big weekend in Vegas and six months later it falls apart/is out of style/looks like crap. Case in point: The only jeans I wear are Levi's 501s. Thirty bucks a pair, and they last basically until they fall o≠ of me. Which means years. Decades, even. Is there a better deal out there? Same with my shirts. And this brings me to my second point: Sometimes "expensive" is actually the better deal. I've gotten more than a few shirts custom-made at Charvet in Paris. Sure, the initial outlay is big. But consider this: These are shirts that are cut by hand from exclusive fabrics and then handsewn with an insanely high degree of craftsmanship. These are shirts that will last forever and are unique to me. I'm not a financier, but all I can say is, Dude, amortize that! These are shirts that may well become something that is—in the best sense of this word—handed down. Because when it comes to clothes, look for things that are built to stand the test of time, that are built to last.—Michael Hainey
25. Dressing well is not about labels—it's about developing personal style.
And that's something you learn, not buy.
